tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32159232452120260582024-03-13T07:25:38.574+05:00AltitudeCovering mountaineering expeditions to Himalayas and Karakoram in general and 8000m peaks in particular.Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comBlogger470125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-73983372039430149122018-04-12T15:19:00.002+05:002018-04-12T15:19:36.408+05:00Spring 2018 Kick-off: The Himalayan Climbing Season Begins
Teams are already in Nepal. Some are finalizing details in Kathmandu, others are already trekking towards Base Camps. Here’s a brief review of some expeditions to kick off the season’s proceedings.
Shisha Pangma
Slovenian-German duo Ines Papert and Luka Lindic intends to climb Shisha Pangma from Southside. They will search for an opportunity to climb a new line or a variant. Luka has climbed Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-42968495845111585122018-03-05T22:20:00.000+05:002018-03-05T22:20:08.157+05:00Winter K2: End of Another Polish Attempt on The Mountain of Mountains
Polish team has decided to conclude the K2 winter expedition 2018 and start the return trip. The expedition manager drafted a list of causes for the cancellation of further action. Nevertheless, given the chain of events of past week or so, it seemed inevitable. This was perhaps the only rational option as well.
Extended Bad Weather
A week ago, Denis Urubko returned to BC after failed solo Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-36976567012733781302018-02-27T19:38:00.001+05:002018-02-27T19:39:58.972+05:00Revisiting K2 Winter 2018: What Happened Thus Far and What Next?
It was a star-studded expedition consisting of Poland’s finest climbers. Inclusion of Denis Urubko was the icing on the cake. The expedition started with extensive media coverage and a lot of positive energy. After all, preparations for this attempt had been going on since years. Two months down the course, has K2 weathered away the flare and flamboyance? The winter season ends in three weeks Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-88972301908689333882018-02-27T11:04:00.000+05:002018-02-28T11:16:08.540+05:00[Updated] Winter Everest: It's Over. Alex Txikon Leaves
[28-Feb-2018] It's official now. As per communication from Alex Txikon's team, they have decided to conclude the expedition.
Update 27-Feb-2018
Winter Everest isn't done yet! As per Alex Txikon, two members of expedition Temba and Ali Sadpara departed for Kathmandu as they couldn't continue the attempt. The Spaniard along with four Sherpa are still in BC and considering different Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-63381137198418139262018-02-26T22:29:00.000+05:002018-02-26T22:29:22.810+05:00K2: Denis Urubko Back in BC, Withdraws from the Expedition
Following an unsuccessful summit attempt, Denis Urubko returned to BC this afternoon. While precise details of his foray are still awaited, it has been formally announced that he is leaving K2 winter expedition 2018; a decision which suites everyone.
“Denis Urubko, according to his convictions regarding the end of the winter season, decided to leave the Winter Expedition on K2. This decision Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-92056265671211992262018-02-26T12:23:00.001+05:002018-02-26T12:23:10.168+05:00A Rebellious [Unsuccessful] Summit Push on K2
There has been an interesting – rather implausible - development on K2 over the weekend. There was an unsuccessful summit push. It was a solo venture without expedition manager’s approval. Denis Urubko left BC on February 24th. He silently went past Marcin Kaczkan and Maciej Bedrejczuk who had started the ascent earlier that day. Denis had not informed anyone in BC of his plan, and denied Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-73222919222500667272018-02-23T15:59:00.004+05:002018-02-26T11:02:38.055+05:00Winter Everest Summit Attempt [Updated]
After month long preparations and a long wait at BC, its action time on Everest. Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and the five climbing Sherpa Temba Bothe, Nuri, Cheppal, Pasang Norbu and Wolung Dorgie are enroute the summit of the mountain. If everything goes as per plan, they will be reaching the top on February 25th. Alex Txikon (and perhaps Ali Sadpara too) intend to climb the mountain without Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-59846026864965182462018-01-30T19:02:00.001+05:002018-01-30T19:12:52.462+05:00Tomek Mackiewicz and Nanga Parbat: Seven Years of Love, Faith, Deceit and the Union
Winter 2011:
Everyone is talking about Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and GII, and rather a mysterious lone Russian on Nanga Parbat. And then there are two more; Marek Klonowski and Tomasz Mackiewicz. “There are no details of this undertaking in Polish sources,” comments wspinanie.pl. The duo’s credentials are limited to first Polish ascent of Mount Logan in Canada and traverse of the massif. The Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-61722082369505542402018-01-27T22:09:00.000+05:002018-01-28T15:57:08.552+05:00Rescue Mission on Nanga Parbat - Elisabeth Rescued to Skardu
Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol are in need of help on Nanga Parbat. They launched summit-push from C3 (7300m) on Jan 25th. While precise details of summit-push are unavailable at the moment (reports say, they made it to the summit), it’s known that Tomek suffered altitude sickness on the way back. He became snow blind and suffered frostbites.
On January 26th, the home-team of two climbersAltitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-66140618142991691382018-01-18T14:33:00.000+05:002018-01-18T14:35:05.995+05:00Winter 2018: Everest Team on a roll, No Camp-1 on K2
Winter teams on Everest and K2 are making good progress despite not-so-favourable conditions. It’s mandatory, nonetheless, as weather windows are few and far between in winter and once available, teams should be ready for working at high altitudes.
Everest
It have been productive few days for Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and Sherpa on Everest. On January 15th, they extended the route from C1 (Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-33302604520125992742018-01-15T12:16:00.002+05:002018-01-15T12:16:25.008+05:00Winter 2018: Everest Teams on the way to C2, Few Details from K2, Nanga Parbat
Winter 2018 climbing season is progressing smoothly, as three teams work on the mountains at their own pace. Everest team is currently fixing the icefall route to C2. Whereas, Nanga Parbat and K2 team would resume the climb as weather conditions improve.
Everest
Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara flew to Kathmandu in last week of December and began the trek to BC without any delay. The team was also Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-84723981039564483992018-01-01T16:52:00.000+05:002018-01-01T17:16:37.312+05:00History of Winter Climbing Everest
History of winter attempts on Himalayan peaks is a little more convoluted than their Karakoram counterparts. Firstly, because Nepal government issued winter permits valid from December 1st. Also, initial expeditions weren’t as careful about calendar seasons, as they are today. Nonetheless, it’s important to isolate calendar winter ascents from rest of the group.
“The [winter] season is Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-41525297088973542902017-12-28T17:30:00.000+05:002018-01-01T17:17:01.653+05:00History of Winter Climbing K2
“We do not blame ourselves because we did everything that was humanly possible in those inhospitable conditions,” - winter-climbing pioneer Andrzej Zawada commented about first unsuccessful winter attempt on K2, of which he was expedition leader.
Winter ascent of K2 is probably the most-remarkable yet unclaimed title in Himalayan mountaineering. It has been attempted just thrice. [Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-67268768336472925802017-12-27T20:45:00.000+05:002017-12-27T20:45:22.023+05:00It's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year
"It's the most wonderful time of the year."
Quite literally for the followers of ‘old-school’ Himalayan mountaineering. Few teams, bigger ambitions and the test of endurance and skill to withstand cold and sufferings. Two major yet-to-be achieved ‘firsts’ in high Asia - K2’s first and Everest’s no O2 ascent, in winter - are being aimed for this winter. And then there’s Nanga Parbat dream!
Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-17091120243704573652017-10-23T15:10:00.000+05:002017-10-23T15:10:15.729+05:00Lhotse South Face: 8400m! Climbers Ready for Summit Push
Bad weather on Lhotse South Face was followed by warmer temperatures; a bit too warm to appreciate. The increase in temperature resulted in excessive rockfall and avalanches. Two Sherpa were hurt during the climb to C4 and one of them had been evacuated from BC to Kathmandu. “There were frequent avalanche and falling stones to hurt some Sherpa and climbing members. It was a snow river, not snow Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-74882789207685576702017-10-18T12:53:00.002+05:002017-10-18T12:53:56.792+05:00Lhotse South Face: Wind, Snow and Cold
After the initial progress to reach C2, with certain help from previously fixed ropes, Lhotse South Face expedition now battles bad weather. Our friend in Korean, Kyu Dam Lee, relayed following message from the team.
According to an e-mail from a member of the Lhotse South Face Expedition 2017, they lost another five days due to heavy snow and strong wind. They also lost C1 [perhaps, due to Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-73851363227124486642017-10-10T21:59:00.003+05:002017-10-10T21:59:50.955+05:00Summer to Fall: Climbing Action Continues
Long gone are lovely summer days in Karakoram and perhaps the busier post-monsoon climbing season in Nepal as well. Nonetheless, a handful of interesting expeditions are still in action. As this website remained silent for a while, this post shall serve the purpose of reconnecting to mountaineering news.
Summer 2017
The climbing season started with tragic loss of Alberto Zerain and Mariano Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-13431099587584980202017-07-21T04:25:00.000+05:002017-07-21T04:25:01.559+05:00Summer 2017 Update: GII & Broad Peak Summits, K2 Teams Ready for the Push
Unpredictable weather in Karakoram. K2 in particular is playing the game of 2015/16, when climbers didn’t even get a full chance to launch summit attempt. Around ten climbers summited Broad Peak on 11th, whereas three made it to GII summit on 16th. Oscar Cadiach remains in BC for his fourteenth eight-thousander. Whereas, K2 teams are all set for summit push.
GII Summits
French mountain guides Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-5275581979374748372017-07-10T23:12:00.000+05:002017-07-10T23:12:37.154+05:00Alberto Zerain and Mariano Galvan Mazeno Search and Rescue Report by Alex Gavan
The Mazeno Ridge search and rescue mission, unfortunately, didn't turn out to be successful. Alberto Zerain and Mariano Galvan were apparently caught in a fatal avalanche around 6000m. Romanian climber Alex Gavan who was attempting Kinshofer route led the search mission on the mountain. He drafted a detailed report about the events leading to and following the incident, along with mountain Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-46811274052913840632017-07-08T16:19:00.000+05:002017-07-08T16:55:41.295+05:00Nanga Parbat Summits, Summit-bids on Broad Peak and Gasherbrums
Kim Hong Bin and Lakpa Sherpa endured several days of cold and hunger at 7200m on Nanga Parbat and were finally able to reach the top, yesterday. Elsewhere, unpredictable weather stalled some summit-push teams on Broad Peak. Gasherbrum teams are still on the move.
Nanga Parbat Summits
Summits are reported on Nanga Parbat, where Korean Kim Hong Bin and Lakpa Nuru Sherpa reached the top yesterdayAltitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-69419794837442919232017-07-01T15:30:00.001+05:002017-07-01T15:30:31.397+05:00Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge: No Sign of Alberto Zerain and Mariano Galvan
The helicopter couldn't fly again for two days due to bad weather in region. Skies cleared this morning and aerial search was resumed. However, the search party found no sign of missing climbers, whereas the position of tracker showed evidence of an avalanche. Here is official press release."The reconnaissance was carried out in two phases, with a stop in between, at 06:00 a.m. (09:00 p.m., Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-68060214730762176642017-06-28T15:40:00.000+05:002017-06-28T15:40:03.449+05:00Alberto Zerain, Mariano Galvan Missing on Mazeno Ridge, Search Underway
Search and rescue mission is underway on Nanga Parbat where Alberto Zerain and Mariano Galvan are unaccounted for since Saturday June 24th. The Spanish-Argentinian duo was attempting Mazeno Ridge in alpine style. Aerial search carried out this morning remained unsuccessful as thick clouds blanketed the last reported position of two climbers. S&R mission will resume tomorrow.
Alberto Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-19816471723783118992017-06-25T13:19:00.000+05:002017-06-25T13:19:48.048+05:00Summer 2017: Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge Attempt, Kinshofer Route Summit-bid Thwarted, Progress in Karakoram
Bad weather thwarts the summit push on Nanga Parbat Kinshofer route. Several climbers have been forced to turn back from C4. The adverse condition also halted the progress on Mazeno Ridge. However, the two climbers resume the ascent as weather improves.
Meanwhile, climbers complete the acclimatization on Broad Peak and are ready for summit push. Teams arrive at K2 Base Camp.
Mazeno Ridge Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-64491055048429892162017-06-20T17:49:00.002+05:002017-06-20T17:49:47.796+05:00Summer 2017: No Summits on Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge Summit-bid, More Teams in Base Camps
There is more to the Nanga Parbat summits story. Expedition leader Mingma Gyalje Sherpa wrote in a Facebook post that they were definitely on summit ridge but cannot confirm if they actually reached the true summit. Climbing up the summit trapezoid, they followed a wrong gulley towards summit ridge. It was a fine attempt, nonetheless. The team climbed the mountain in less than two weeks - well Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3215923245212026058.post-15488207245544170692017-06-16T11:32:00.000+05:002017-06-20T18:01:19.884+05:00Summer 2017: Nanga Parbat Summits Already! (Updated)
Update:-
Expedition leader of summit party says, they couldn't identify whether they reached the true summit or not. More here.
Previous:-
Summer climbing season is just kicking off and we already have first summits of the season. The news just in from Iran is that eight climbers, including Reza Shahlaee, reached the top of Nanga Parbat on June 11th.
Nanga Parbat Diamir Face - Photo: Altitudehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12316217604380799737noreply@blogger.com