Summer 2013 | List of Mountaineering Expeditions to Karakoram and Western Himalayas (Pakistan)

Updated (05-August-2013): Summits/Causalities updated.

After an eventful spring season, the climbing action returns to Pakistan. Below is the draft of mountaineering expeditions to four Karakoram 8000ers and Western Himalayan giant Nanga Parbat. Additions/amendments are expected as season progresses.

Please let me know if any expedition is missing.

Jump to: 1. K2 2. Nanga Parbat 3. GI 4. Broad Peak 5. GII


K2 (8611)

1) Tochige K2 Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Kitamura Seiichi (No Summit)
2. Endo Hirotaka
(No Summit)
3. Sasaki Rihito
(No Summit)
4. Oyabe Akira
(No Summit)
5. Katayangi Norio
(No Summit)
6. Higashiyama Takashi
(No Summit)
7. Otomo Teruko
(No Summit)
8. Yoshida Michiko
(No Summit)
Nation: Japan
Key Feature:
Website/Updates: website

2) Lela's International K2 Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Alex Txikon (No Summit)
2. Felix Criado (No Summit)
3. Benjamin Salazar Cortes (No Summit)
4. Jangbu Sherpa (No Summit) 
x. Ferran Latorre Torres (Cancelled due to Nanga Parbat Massacre)
x. Jose Ignacio Orviz Menendez?

x. Ernestas Marksaitis (Killed by terrorists)
x. Gabriel Filippi (Cancelled after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Nation: Spain, Mexico, Lithuania, Canada
Key Feature: Some climbers have a permit to climb Gasherbrums, as well. Gabriel & Ernestas are also part of Nanga Parbat Expedition. Plan to attempt via South-Southeast spur (Cesen route), without oxygen and porters.
Website/Updates: Benjamin's website,

3) International K2 & Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Marty Schmidt (No Summit - Killed by an avalanche on 27-07-13)
2. Denali Schmidt (Marty's son - No Summit - Killed by an avalanche on 27-07-13)

3. Chris Mellor Warner (No Summit)
4. Tshiring Dorjee Sherpa
(No Summit)
5. Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
(No Summit)
6. Alexandros Aravidis
(No Summit) 
7. Nikolaos Mangitsis (No Summit) 
Nation: New Zealand, Australia, Nepal, Greece
Key Feature: They would be climbing Broad Peak first. Might attempt K2 via Southeast Ridge (Abruzzi Spur), depending upon conditions.
Website/Updates: Marty's FB, Greek Expedition Website, Greek's FB,

4) UK-Nepal-Canada K2 Expedition
Climbers:
1. Lakpa Sherpa (No Summit)
2. Al Hancock (No Summit)
3. Adrian Hayes (No Summit)
4. Chheji Nurbu Sherpa (No Summit)
5. Mingma Sherpa (No Summit)
6. Nima Sherpa (No Summit)
Nation: UK, Canada, Nepal
Key Feature: Southeast Ridge (Abruzzi Spur).
Website/Updates: Linked above

5) Swiss K2 Expedition
Climbers:
1. Mike Horn (No Summit)
2. Fred Roux
(No Summit)
3. Kobi Reichen (No Summit)
Nation: Switzerland
Key Feature South-Southeast spur (Cesen route), without oxygen, porters and in alpine style.
Website/Updates: Mike Horn's Facebook,

6) Mongolian Female Climber
Climbers: Badamgarav Gangaamaa (No Summit)
2. Asghar (SUMMIT on probably 18th Jul)
3. Sarwar (SUMMIT on probably 18th)
Nation: Mongolia  
Key Feature: B. Gangaamaa was first female Mongolian to climb Everest. She will be joining one of the international teams.
Website/Updates: Mongol Mountaineering (MICF) Facebook Page

7) Argentinean K2 Expedition
Climbers:
1) Matoco Erroz (No Summit)
2) Juan Pablo Milana (No Summit)
Nation: Argentina
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: Facebook,

 

Nanga Parbat (8126)

1) Ukraine International Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers:
1. Igor Sviergun (Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
2. Oleksandr Zakolodnyi (No Summit)
3. Bidzina Gujabidze
(No Summit) 
4. Badavi Kashaiev (Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
5. Mykhailo Kolotushkin
(No Summit)
 6. Konyaev Dmytro (Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
7. Danylo Yasnyuk (No Summit)

8. Afi Gigani - Georgia (No Summit)
9. Anton Dobes - Slovakia
(Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
10. Peter Šperka - Slovakia
(Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
x. Dmitrii Podlesnyi ?
x. Sergii Bershov ?
x. Volodymyr Roshko ?
x. Parra Changolusia Edgar Armando?

x. Sydorenko Pavlo ?
Nation:Ukraine, Georgia, Slovakia, Russia?, Ecuador?
Key Feature: Kinshofer route, Diamir Side
Website/Updates: Kharkov Alpine Club,


2) International Nanga Parbat Expedition
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers:
1. Aleksandra Maria Dzik (No Summit)
2. Nina Adanin (No Summit)
3. Mikhail Veshchagin (No Summit)
4. Ihor Karabin (No Summit)
5. Saulius Damulevicius (No Summit)
6. Ernestas Marksaitis
(Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
7. Ivan Yuriev Tomov (No Summit)
8. Jacek Teler (No Summit)
9. Aleksandra Lutokhin (No Summit)
10. Dimitry Sinev (No Summit)
11. Gennady Kirievskiy (No Summit)
12. Israfil Ashurly (No Summit)
13. Ismail Askerov (No Summit)
14. Gabriel Filippi(No Summit)
15. Gleb Sokolov(No Summit)
16. Oleg Obrizan(No Summit)
17. Andrej Manujłow(No Summit)
18. Alexei Kosjakow (No Summit)

19. Natalia Zenina(No Summit)
Nation: Polish, Russia, Azerbaijan, Lithuania, Canada, Ukraine, Bulgaria, Latvia
Key Feature: Kinshofer Route on Diamir Side
Website/Updates:Facebook

3) Romanian Spantik & Nanga Parbat Expedition
Climbers:
1. Marius Gane (SUMMIT 19-July-13)
2. Teo Vlad
(SUMMIT 19-July-13)
3. Zsolt Torok (SUMMIT 19-July-13)
4. Bruno Adamcsek
(No Summit)
5. Aurel Salasan (SUMMIT 19-July-13)
Nation: Romania
Key Feature: Schell Route on Rupal Side.
Website/Updates: website, Facebook

4) Romanian Expedition
Climbers:
1. Pogacean Cristina
2. Cosmin Andron
3. Felicia Enache?
4. Lukin Evgenii?

Nation: Romania, Russia
Key Feature: Expedition has been postponed till next year, due to financial reasons.
Website/Updates: ?

5) Seven Summit Treks Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers:
1. Yang Chunfeng (Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
2. Rao Jianfeng
(Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013) 
3. Zhang Jingchuan (No Summit)
4. Honglu Chen
(Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
5. Halung Dorchi Sherpa?
6. Renje Lakpa Sherpa?
7. Mingma Thinduk Sherpa?
8. Pemba Dorchi Sherpa?
9. Pechhumbe Sherpa?
10. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa?
11. Karma Sherpa?
12. Danuru Sherpa?

13. Sona Sherpa (Killed by terrorists in Diamir BC on 22-06-2013)
x. Zhang Wei  
Nation: China/Nepal
Key Feature:?
Website/Updates:?

6) My Dream 8000er - Pakistani Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers
1. Karim Hayyat (No Summit)
2. Naseer Uddin (No Summit)
3. Sher Khan (No Summit)
Nation: Pakistan
Key Feature: Without support; Kinshofer Route, Diamir Side
Website/Updates: Facebook

7) Polish Nanga Parbat Experience 2013 - Polski Klub Alpejski
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers:
1. Boguslaw Magrel (No Summit)
2. Wlodek Kierus (No Summit)
3. Adam Stadnik (No Summit)

Nation: Poland
Key Feature: Kinshofer Route, Diamir Side
Website/Updates: Website, Facebook

8) Multinational Expedition
(Expedition has been aborted after Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers:
1. Tunc Findik (No Summit)
2. Mehdi Gholipour (No Summit)
x. Alex Gavan?
x. Fabrice Imparato?
x. Azim Gheichisaz?
Nation: Turkey, Nepal, Romania, Iran, France
Key Feature: Kinshofer Route, Diamir Side. Tunc will be joining Chinese Team.
Website/Updates: linked above

9) Pawel Michalski and Simone La Terra
(Expedition was cancelled due to Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers: Pawel Michalski, Simone La Terra
Nation: Poland, Italy
Key Feature: Kinshofer Route, Diamir Side
Website/Updates: Website, Facebook

10) Ukrainian (Kiev) Expedition
(Expedition aborted due to Nanga Parbat Massacre)
Climbers
1. Lanko Vladimir (team leader), (No Summit) 
2. Kovba Marina, (No Summit)
3. Chepiga Andrey, (No Summit)
4. Sichkar Yuriy, (No Summit)
5. Chukanov Evgeniy(No Summit)
Nation: Ukraine
Key Feature: Kinshofer Route, Diamir Side
Website/Updates

 

Broad Peak (8051)

1) Polish Expedition for Burial
Climbers:
1. Jacek Berbeka (No Summit attempted)
2. Jacek Jawien 
(No Summit attempt)
3. Jacek Hugo-Bader 
(No Summit attempt)
4. Krzysztof Tarasiewicz 
(No Summit attempt)
Nation: Poland
Key Feature:Expedition for Burial of Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski, who died above C4 in winter.
Website/Updates

2) Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Robert Hochreiter (Foresummit on 4-7-13)
2. Tino Lange (No Summit)
3. Johannes Franke (No Summit)
4. Erich Weitlaner (No Summit)
5. Daniela Gosch (No Summit)
6. Peter Zumstein (No Summit)
7. Gerardus Hof (No Summit)
8. Steffen Hirzel (No Summit)
9. Thomas Krahnert (No Summit)
10. Lorenz Hubschmann (No Summit)
11. Lothar Piper (No Summit)

Nation: Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Netherlands
Key Feature:
Website/Updates: Amical Alpin

3) SP GRP Gurtler & Inhoger Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Paul Gurtler (Foresummit on 4-7-13)
2. Josef Inhoger
(SUMMIT on 4-7-13)
3. Friedrich Schwabl (No Summit)
4. Johann Hirschbichler (No Summit)
5. Bernd Tritscher (No Summit)
6. Josef Rieser
(Foresummit on 4-7-13)
7. Alexander Holleis
(Foresummit on 4-7-13)
8. Roland Moltinger (No Summit)
9. Helmut Holleis (No Summit)
10. Christian Buchsteiner (No Summit)
11. Ortner Harald (No Summit)
12. Harry Nikol
(Foresummit on 4-7-13)
13. Michael Haselsteiner (No Summit)
14. Reinhard Auzinger
(Foresummit on 4-7-13)
Nation: Austria, Germany
Key Feature: Expedition by AMICAL alpin
Website/Updates: Michael's blog,

4) FTA Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Rauno (Ron) Hoglin (Foresummit on 14-July-13)
2. John Walton Quillen (No Summit)
3. Scott Stuart Powrie
(No Summit)
4. Brian Richard Moran (Injured his leg on 7-July-13, Cancelled the attempt).

Nation: USA, Canada,
Key Feature:
Website/Updates: FTA Blog,

x) Seven Summit Treks Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Chunfeng Yang (Killed at Diamir BC)
2. Jianfeng Rao (Killed at Diamir BC)
3. Halung Dorchi Sherpa
4. Pechhumbe Sherpa
5. Mingma Thinduk Sherpa
6. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa
7. Karma Sherpa

Nation: China/Nepal
Key Feature:?
Website/Updates: ?

5) International K2 & Broad Peak Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Marty Schmidt (SUMMIT on 14-July-13)
2. Denali Schmidt (Marty's son) - (SUMMIT on 14-July-13)
3. Chris Mellor Warner (Forsummit on 14-July-13)
4. Tshiring Dorjee Sherpa
(No Summit)
5. Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
(No Summit)
6. Alexandros Aravidis (No Summit)

7. Nikolaos Mangitsis (No Summit)
Nation: New Zealand, Australia, Nepal, Greece
Key Feature: They would be climbing Broad Peak first. Might attempt K2 via Southeast Ridge (Abruzzi Spur), depending upon conditions.
Website/Updates: Marty's FB, Greek Expedition Website, Greek's FB,

6) Iranian Broad Peak Expedition
Climbers:
1. Ramin Shojaei (No Summit)
2. Aidin Bozorgi (SUMMIT on 16-7-13; Went missing during descent. Last call on 20th)
3. Pouya Keivan (SUMMIT on 16-7-13; Went missing during descent.)
4. Mojtaba Jarahi
(SUMMIT on 16-7-13; Went missing during descent.)
5. Afshin Saadi (No Summit)

Nation: Iran
Key Feature: New Route on South West Face. First Iranian new route on any 8000er.
Website/Updates: KohNews

7) German Expedition
Climbers: Climbers including 39years old lady Dana H. (Died after falling into a glacial river on 6-July-13) (No Summit)
Nation: Germany
Key Feature:
Website/Updates:  

11) Mexican Couple on Hidden Peak (GI) & Broad Peak
Climbers: Badia and Mauricio López Bonilla (No Summit)
Nation: Mexico
Key Feature: Part of couple's project to climb all 8000m peaks. Badia wants to become first South American woman to do so. Till now, both Badia & Mauricio has climb 6 8000ers (plus Shishapangma central).
Website/Updates: website

 

Gasherbrums - GI(8080) & GII(8034)

1) International Gasherbrum I & II Expedition 2013
Climbers:
1. Arnold Coster (No Summit)
2. Grace McDonald (No Summit)

3. Mark Quinn (No Summit)
4. Jonathan Kedrowski (No Summit)
Nation: Dutch, Ireland, USA
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: Arnold's Facebook,Quinn's Facebook, SPOT,

2) Belgian GI & GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Stef Maginelle (SUMMITs GII on 21-7-13; GI on 29-7-13)
2. Sofie Lenaerts (No Summit)
3. Koen Verschraegen (No Summit)
4. Johan Schots
(No Summit)
5. Guido Riemenschneider
(SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13)
Nation: Dutch, Belgium, Ireland, USA
Key Feature:Sofie intended a paragliding descent from GII summit.
Website/Updates: Belgians Facebook,
 

3) Czech GI & GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Marek Holecek (No Summit)
2. Zdenek Hruby 
(No Summit)
3. Marek Novotny (SUMMIT GI on 28-7-13; GII on 9-Aug-13)
4. Tomas Petrecek
(SUMMIT GI on 28-7-13; GII on 9-Aug-13)
x. Jan Travnicek 
x. Jakub Vanek
x. Cermak Radex
x. Pavel Cngr
Nation: Czech Republic
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates:Listed above

4) German GI & GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Thomas Lammle (SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
2. Karl-Ludwig Holzer 
(No Summit)
3. Fritz Bruder 
(No Summit)
4. Thomas Geister 
(No Summit)
5. Hans-Gunter Weinand
(SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
6. Helga Soll
(SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
7. Jurgen Greher
(SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
8. Jorg Klocke
(SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
9. Bastian Guggenberger
(SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
10. Volker Schumann (SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
11. Nikolaus Gruber (SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13)
12. Ali Raza (Sadpara) (SUMMIT GII on 18-7-13) 
Nation: Germany
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: Amical Alpin, map,

5) Lela's International GI & GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Alvaro Paredes (SUMMIT GI on 21-7-13; Went missing on descent)
2. Arkaitz Mendia (No Summit)
3. David Lopez (No Summit)
4. David Polo (No Summit)
5. Oscar Montoya (No Summit)
6. Xavi Comez (SUMMIT GI on 21-7-13; Went missing on descent)
7. Alex Galiano Salazar
(No Summit)
8. Abel Alonso Gomez (SUMMIT GI on 21-7-13; Went missing on descent)
9. Alfredo Garcia - GI only
(No Summit)
10. Pedro Gracia - GI only (No Summit)
11. Ruben Ignacio Conteras
(No Summit)
12. Mariano Galvan (SUMMITs GII on 14-7-13; GI on 20-7-13)
13. Anibal Pineda Gonzalez (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13)
14. Martin Isak Letzter - GII only 
(No Summit)
15. Maria Johanna Ingemarsdotter - GII only 
(No Summit)
Nation: Spain, Argentina, Colombia, Sweden
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: Abel's weblog, Spanish Team's Blog,

6) Koblar & Partner GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Suzanne Katharina Husser (SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
2. Hans-Thomas Philipp Hodel (No Summit)
3. Claude Rey (No Summit)
4. Pierre Yves Bonvin (SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
5. Antonio Edouard Centofanti Federico (No Summit)
6. Hans Egli (No Summit)
7. Bernard Aldo Robyr (No Summit)
8. Barbara Bierling (No Summit)
9. Andre Hanf (No Summit)
10. Jurgen Ortloff (No Summit)
11. Franz Josef Haberl (No Summit)
12. Kanchha Lama Sherpa (SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
13. Ngima Chhiring Lama (SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)

14. Muhammad (SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
Nation: Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Nepal
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: website

7) Russian GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Olga Sukhanova (No Summit)
2.
Victoria Klimenko (No Summit)
3. Viktor Bochkarev (No Summit)
4. Igor Mitroshenkov (No Summit)
5. Alexei Kosjakow (SUMMIT GII on 15-7-13; GI on 29-7-13)
x. Mostafin Yury? 
x. Zenina Natalia?
x. Varga Csaba?
Nation: Russia, Latvia
Key Feature: ?
Website/Updates: ?

8) Atunas Taiwanese GII Expedition
Climbers:
1. Ming-Pen Liang (No Summit)
2. Wen-Chen Huang
(SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
3. Kuo-Chun Chen (No Summit)
4. Chung-Han Lu
(SUMMIT GII on 17-7-13)
5. Wen-I Lin (No Summit)
6. Chih-Chan Lien - Manager
x. Chiu-Hao Huang?
Nation: China
Key Feature: Hoping to become first Taiwanese team to scale GII
Website/Updates: blog

9) Hillary Expeditions GI & GII
Climbers
1) Chris Burke (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13, GI on 29-7-13)
2) Lakpa Sherpa (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13, GI on 29-7-13)
3) Gregory Attard (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13, GI on 29-7-13)
4) Graham (No Summit)
5) Anna Maria Baranska (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13)
6) Sherpas?  
Nation: New Zealand, Malta, Australia, Poland
Key Feature: Aiming to be first female New Zealander to summit both peaks in one season, without oxygen.
Website/Updates: Chris' website

10) Polish Climbers on GI & GII
Climbers: Artur Hajzer (Died due to a fatal fall on 07-July-2013)
2. Marcin Kaczkan (No Summit)
Nation: Poland
Key Feature: Climbing with minimum resources, would evaluate the option of a full traverse.
Website/Updates: Artur's Facebook,

11) FireFighter on GII
Climbers:
1. Carlos Garranzo (No Summit)
2. Varga Csaba (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13)
3. Harald Hasslacher (SUMMIT GII on 21-7-13)
Nation: Spain, Hungary, Austria
Key Feature: Climbed Everest in 2006. He is climbing alone.
Website/Updates: blog, Facebook

12) Spanish GI Team
Climbers:  
1. Patxi Goñi (No Summit)
2. Oscar Cadiach (SUMMIT GI on 29-7-13)
Nation: Spain
Key Feature: 13th 8000er for Oscar.
Website/Updates: linked above

13) Ecuadorian Climber
Climbers: Jose Rivadenerira (SUMMIT GII on 19-7-13)
Nation: Ecuador
Key Feature:
Website/Updates

xx) Finnish GI Expedition  (Expedition has been cancelled)
Climbers:
1. Samuli Mansikka
2. Matti Ristinen 
Nation: Finland
Key Feature:They will operate independently above BC, climbing without bottled oxygen and porter support.
Website/Updates: listed above


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