Autumn 2013 | More Summit Bids, No Summits on Makalu

The bad weather days are over and more summit pushes are in progress on Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. The acclimatization process of Makalu team was quite smooth but a storm on summit bid forced them to return home, without success. Ueli Steck reports good conditions from Annapurna, while Lhotse teams are about to reach the C2.

Annapurna
The communication from Ueli Steck and Don Bowie has been quite scattered this season. In the first message since their arrival at Base Camp, Ueli Steck wrote, “I reached almost 6000m, yesterday (September 27). Conditions were great. Today it’s snowing hard. We have to wait and see. Right now we are still in ABC at 5000m.”

The Swiss-American/Canadian duo is attempting Annapurna South Face.

Makalu
The Argentinean-American Makalu climbers, Sebastian Satke, Nani-k Stahringer, Josh Garner, Jacob Schmitz and April Mayhew, left the BC for the summit last week, but a heavy storm thwarted their summit push. “Storm hit us during our summit bid, turning us around & preventing further advancement.” The team has started the return journey. Further details about summit push are not available, yet.

Lhotse
There are two teams on Lhotse, this season. The Italian duo, Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli, reached Base Camp on September 14th while a Korean team, led by Hong Sung Taek, arrived a week later.

So far the Italians have been ascending the Ice Fall without ladders and fixed ropes. During previous acclimatization rotation, they spent a night in C1 before turning back due to bad weather. The Korean expedition consists of six climbers and is supported by several Sherpas. They have already fixed the route with ladder and ropes till C1, and will be completing it to C2, soon.

The Italians reached C1 today and will be going to C2, tomorrow.

Korean Lhotse Team's BC; Source

Manaslu
After 3-4 days of bad weather, the summit climbs have resumed on Manaslu. Several climbers are hoping to make it to the top, on October 2nd and 3rd.

The Romanian Team left BC, yesterday and is expected to have reached C2, today. Their plan is to spend nights in C3 and C4, prior to summit push on October 3rd.

Three members of Austrian Ski Expedition summited Manaslu on September 25th. Fourth member of the team, Georg Leithner, started the summit climb, yesterday. He reached C2, today and is expected to continue to C3, tomorrow and onwards to summit on 2nd or 3rd.

Spanish climber Xavi Arias is also in C2 tonight and will be climbing to C4, tomorrow. Italian duo, Alice Cavallera and Alberto Pacellini are currently in C1 and will be ascending to C2, this morning. Italian Liguri Apuani Expedition led by Fabrizio Molignoni, Swiss climber Andrea Zimmermann and Belgian explorer Teodor Johansen must also have left the BC for the summit push, by now.

Cho Oyu
Good weather is reported from Cho Oyu, where at least two teams are currently in C2. The Amical alpin and Adventure Peaks expeditions are expecting to reach the top on Tuesday (2nd October).

Towards Cho Oyu C2; Source

Shishapangma
Summit bids are currently underway on Shishapangma. Spaniard Carlos Soria left BC on September 29th and has arrived in C2, today. If successful, it will be the11th eight-thousander for 74-year old climber, who turned back from Shishapangma central in 2005.

The British Ski Expedition climbers, Rich and Dave, had to turn back 450m below summit on September 23rd. Dave has now abandoned the expedition but Rich Emerson is making another attempt to scale Shishapangma. He left BC on 29th.

The International Expedition climbers Eelco Jansen, Frank Lotthrincx and Danilo Callegari left the BC, today. They will be staying in C1, C2 and C3, before summit bid on 3rd. Polish climber, Andrzej Bargiel, will be leaving BC tomorrow, with the plan of reaching the summit on October 4th.

Earlier this season, Hungarian lady Lestak Erzsebet and Swiss Kobler-Partner expedition reached Shishapangma central (8013m) on September 25th, but couldn’t climb to the true summit.

Ascending towards Shishapangma Summit; Source

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