Summer 2014 | An Eight-Thousander for Acclimatization, BC Trek and Change in Rules

The summer has touched the core of Karakoram, as Hansjorg Auer reports a notable increase in temperatures from Broad Peak. Climbers from all corners of the world have started the journey to climb the massive and magnificent mountains around Concordia. Various groups have resumed the lengthy trek from Askole to the respective Base Camps; others are sorting out bureaucratic and logistics matters in Islamabad and Skardu. Some climbers will be flying to Pakistan, soon.

K2 South side; Image Source

Masherbrum Team on Broad Peak

They reached the mountain at the start of June and are about to conclude the acclimatization part of their project. David Lama, Peter Ortner and Hansjorg Auer are acclimatizing on Broad Peak to attempt the Masherbrum’s unclimbed Northeast Face.

As per Hansjorg, they have made three trips on the mountain so far and have reached Camp 3 at around 7000m. After one more rotation, they will be heading to Masherbrum. It’s not known whether the trio will make a summit attempt on Broad Peak or not.

The Walk to the Mountains

The Greek K2 team of Alexandros Aravidis and Panagiotis Athanasiadis flew to Skardu on June 8th and 9th, respectively. They drove to Askole on 10th, and were expected to start the trek to BC on 11th. They should reach the Base Camp in next couple of days.

After first day of trekking, Mexican couple Mauricio and Badia are currently at Jhola camp-site. It's their second expedition to Broad Peak.

Change in Rules

Giuseppe Pompili, the Italian mountaineer who is climbing with Tamara Lunger and Nikolaus Gruber, is slightly upset because of a change in rules. This year, it has been made compulsory that all members of an expedition should start the Base Camp trek together with their liaison officer.

"The rules, two weeks ago, have changed, and all those who share a permit to climb, must start together, even if they belong to different agencies," Giuseppe Pompili wrote on his blog.

The Italians climbers are sharing climbing permit with Bulgerian Petrov and Dankov, American Cleo Weidlich and Pemba Sherpa; who haven’t reached Pakistan yet. It means that the Italians will have to wait till the arrival of remaining climbers. Nonetheless, their plan was to leave for Askole today (to acquire some acclimatization) and start the trek with rest of the group, next week.

Polish K2 and Broad Peak Middle teams reached Askole on June 16th. Broad Peak climbers Romanian Alex Gavan and Australian Gavin Vickers are in Skardu, now. British adventurer Adrian Hayes has also reached Islamabad.

Skardu; Image Source

Arriving Soon

Many climbers haven’t reached Pakistan, yet. Taiwanese Broad Peak expedition is expected to start on June 18th. Japanese team, led by Nobukazu Kuriki, will be reaching Islamabad on June 25th. Alan Arnette will be leaving USA next week, to attempt K2. Spanish Broad Peak team is also expected to arrive here, next week. It appears that K2/Broad Peak double header team, Chris Burke and Lakpa Sherpa, are also in Pakistan by now. Tunc Findik will be reaching Islamabad on June 18th. He will be attempting GI and GII.

The climbing action is expected to pace up, as climbers reach the mountains and more teams arrive in Pakistan.

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