Summer 2014 | Another Summit Attempt on Broad Peak, Struggle Continues on K2 (Updated)

Boyan Petrov’s summit push was thwarted at around 7700m, after trail-breaking in fresh snow for seven hours. He was first (and the only) climber to go above C3 after fresh snowfall. Boyan has now retreated to BC for rest and recovery, before another summit attempt together with Bulgarian fellows Mladen Dankov and Ivan Tomov. (Ivan Tomov is a survivor of Nanga Parbat Diamir BC massacre and is attempting Broad Peak only. Boyan and Mladen will be heading to K2, later in the season.)

Summit Push 2

Another summit push is currently underway on Broad Peak, as Chris Jensen Burke updated from C3 on May 13th, “A quick update from C3 at 7200m. We plan to leave for C4 on the 14th July and then, if the mountain is willing we will leave for the summit early on the 15th.”

The forecast suggests deterioration in weather from July 16th; however, Chris and her team cannot wait for another summit window. “This will be our only chance for Broad Peak as a weather window for K2 may be coming soon.”


Broad Peak summit ridge; Image shows Markus Kronthaler and Sepp Bachmair on the way to Broad Peak summit on July 6th, 2006. Markus unfortunately died on descent. Broad Peak Foresummit in foreground and Main summit in back (at the center of image). Photo: Peter Ressmann

Completion of Acclimatization

After individual summit bids by Bulgarians and Chris Burke’s team, Broad Peak is now ready for big summit push as several climbers conclude their acclimatization on the mountain. Alex Gavan, the Romanian climber, is waiting for summit window. Mexican couple, Mauricio and Badia, has also established C3 last week.

Oscar Cadiach’s team has also completed the acclimatization. They reached C3 on July 12th and descended to BC on 14th. The team predicts July 20th to 25th to be their weather window for the summit. It’s pertinent to mention that in case of success on Broad Peak, Oscar Cadiach will become the 33rd person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.

Polish Broad Peak Middle team, the Spanish-International expedition and Summit Climb expedition have also reached C3. “Completed acclimatization, we will summit attempt next window of good weather.” Spanish climber Carlos Garranzo told us.

Pakistani climbers heading up towards C2 on K2. Source

K2 Progress

As often said, K2 has its own weather system, which may significantly vary from neighboring peaks (like Broad Peak). While almost all the teams have been to C2 by now, the mountain hasn’t let anyone to go above yet. “The strong winds didn’t allow them to climb higher (from C2). The weather, severe and unpredictable, is the biggest obstacle in climbing K2.” Wrote the home team of Greek duo Alexandros Aravidis and Panagiotis Athanasiadis.

Gasherbrum

From GPS data, it appears that Tunc Findik’s GI/GII team was able to reach C2 (6400m) on GII. They have now descended to BC.

Update (15-July-2014 at 1600hrs Pakistan Time)
Chris Burke and team retreated from 7400m due to excess of fresh snow. "With no fixed ropes and having to break trail in such snow it was a clear no go decision." Explains the Kiwi climber. They will now be heading to K2.

On K2, multiple climbers (including Adrian Hayes team, Czech Expedition, Samuli Mansikka and possibly others) were pushing to C3 today. Finnish Samuli Mansikka successfully made it to the camp. He tweeted, "Now at Camp 3 on Abruzzi at 7450m to spend a night. Very windy and cold getting here but quite nice now!"

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