Winter 2015 | Summit Push Details and Update on Other Climbers

It has been nearly a month since the start of winter climbing season and we have already witnessed one remarkable summit push on Nanga Parbat. While Elisabeth Revol has extended her stay at BC and may go for a second attempt, Tomek Mackiewicz will have to return home due to injuries from a crevasse fall. Russian team also seems ready for summit-bid. Daniele Nardi continues his work on Mummery Rib. Alex Txikon and the three Iranians will also be reaching Diamir BC, soon.

The Summit Push
We presented some information about the Tomek and Elisabeth's recent summit push in our previous posts. Tomek shared further details about the ascent in an audio message [Polish] from BC. He says that they made two attempts towards summit. On first day, they misjudged the distance and thought that summit is nearer than it actually was. They retreated to tent for food and hydration, and launched another summit-bid a day later. After leaving tent at 3 in the morning, they made it to the pass (ca 7800m) by 11am. From here on, route to the summit seemed negotiable but the conditions were terrible. It was windy, cloudy and started to snow. Tomek thinks even if they had managed to reach the summit, the descent in darkness would have been suicidal.

Blue line shows the route of Tomek/Elisabeth's ascent; Source

Retreating from 7800m, the duo spent an uncomfortable night in wet and frozen Camp 4. Following day, they continued the descent towards BC. Their plan was to rest and recover and launch another summit push in few days.

On the way down, approximately at the level of Ganalo Peak (6608m) summit, they passed through a snow bridge over a crevasse. The bridge couldn’t hold under Tomek’s weight. He fell around 40m. “[it was a] space adventure. I have pain around thigh muscle, most likely a broken rib as well, 6 frozen toes which I hope will not require amputation.”

They reached BC at around 2am. Fortunately, Tomek was able to descend from 6500m to BC, unaided. Next morning, however, the Polish climber says he couldn’t even move due to these injuries. He also tells that he has run out of money and will require financial support for return trip.

Meanwhile, Elisabeth Revol, who was expected to start return journey on January 20th, has delayed her departure. She discussed the possibility of a second summit attempt with Daniele Nardi. It seems that Daniele, Tomek and Elisabeth have discussed and resolved the misunderstanding that stirred up last week.

Daniele Nardi
Daniele Nardi went up from BC to C2 (5050m) on Sunday. He intended to go up and observe Mummery Spur closely, but was also concerned about safety of Tomek and Elisabeth. On Monday morning, BC team told him about the arrival of French-Polish duo.

"Before leaving, I contacted Base Camp to understand the situation of Elisabeth and Tomek. BC informed me that the two companions are safe. So, I decide to climb the spur with an open mind and a lighter spirit." By the evening, Daniele was at BC to meet Tomek and Elisabeth.

Russian Team
Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval have made significant progress on Schell route. Between January 14th and 20th, the Russians extended the route fixing from 6000m to 7150m. They have now reached the point, from where route traverses to Diamir side.

SMS from the team reads, "Reached 7150m, the place to move to Diamir Face. A huge mountain! Now we rest in BC. All's OK."

Variants of  Schell Route on Rupal side. Image from Polish Winter Nanga Parbat 2006-07 Team

Iranian Climbers and Alex Txikon
After resolving visa issue, Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmood Hashemi are expected to arrive in Islamabad, tomorrow. Spanish climber Alex Txikon who is already in Pakistan, will be leaving for Chilas soon. He will be sharing permit and BC facilities with Iranian climbers. Alex’s climbing partners on the mountain will be Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan.

Alex Txikon arranging equipment in Islamabad. Source


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