Winter 2015 | Ali Sadpara's Must-read Interview, Nanga Parbat High Altitude Police and Bad Weather Reaches Manaslu

Success of several Himalayan expeditions greatly depends upon efforts of high altitude porters. However, they’re also the least vocal ones and seldom has their opinion reached the masses.

Ali Sadpara has been a vital part of multiple important expeditions. He is termed as “currently the best Pakistani climber” and “the real leader of current winter Nanga Parbat expedition” by Alex Txikon. Alex’s BC companion Igone Mariezkurrena interviewed Ali Sadpara, which is published on Spanish climber’s website. Ali’s views about mountains and mountaineering in Pakistan are raw, candid and a true depiction of what lays ahead for Pakistani HAPs.

It’s a must read: Ali ‘Sadpara’: “My work is always invisible”

Ali Sadpara; Source

No Climbing on Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is yet again testing the patience level of winter climbers. No summit window is in foresight as Alex Txikon communicated this afternoon, “meteorological forecast is changing everyday here, so still it’s not possible to talk about summit day, but looking forward to leave this BC as soon as possible.”

The High Altitude Police Reaches Diamir BC
Iranian climbers are reporting that a group of ‘high altitude’ police officers have reached the BC. “.. [they] will stay there till the end of the expedition with their high level of patience and responsibility. They are very kind and friendly officers”

The security officers also conveyed a message from Government, “The government of Pakistan have fully established safety in the base camp of Nanga Parbat and other mountains of the region and according to this matter had sent 10 armed officers to this camp but due to condition and lack of enough tent, 4 officers had to go to villages in Buner Das region and they will be exchanged each week. However the local people of Diamir village will also prevent strangers to enter the Diamir valley.”

High Altitude Police has reached Nanga Parbat BC; Source

Back to C1 on Manaslu
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are making methodological progress on Manaslu. Yesterday, they went up from C1 and reconnaissance the route through crevasses to C2. However, Simone Moro decided to turn back from 5900m as conditions were windy and cold.

Tamara updated her blog from BC last night, “If it were up to me, today I would immediately go up to camp 2 and would stay there for the night. All the things which are normal in the regular season, here they must be explored and experienced first.”

She continued, “I have to admit that I still have to learn to be patient, because as soon as the wind decreased today, I regretted the decision that we climbed down again today. In my mind I would see myself already on 7000m tomorrow and with the next window of good weather on the summit (if we are granted to do so).

But thanks to Simone, who indeed has enough experience, I can restrain somehow my ideas, and just try to live on one of my resolutions – ENJOY the MOMENT.”

The two climbers made another carry to C1 today and retreated to BC. Weather predicted to deteriorate from tomorrow.

Italians on Manaslu; Source
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