Winter 2016 | Poles Revisit their Strategy, Others Continue Acclimatization

The climbers need to be adaptive and proactive on Nanga Parbat, where conditions – be it snowstorms, hurricane winds or summit window – remain unpredictable at all times. Poles Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech too had to redo their strategy a day after reaching Base Camp. Things are proceeding smoothly for other expeditions, thus far.
Nanga Light team at Base Camp; Source

No Alpine Style Ascent
Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech acclimatized comprehensively on Ojos de Salado (6893m) before traveling to Pakistan. They had spent 14 nights above the altitude of 4000m, 5 above 5200m, 2 above 5800m and 3 nights at or above 6750m. They rushed to Nanga Parbat for an alpine style attempt within two weeks, before losing acclimatization.

However, one may never climb Nanga Parbat at his own terms. The dry blue ice conditions and no foreseeable summit window made an alpine style attempt improbable.

“Base (camp) is ready. Gear is segregated and we're combat ready, just Himalayan weather sucks as usual. To prevent idle sitting in base we're going up tomorrow. We plan to reach second base and put our only railing rope on Kinshofer wall. Unfortunately weather forecasts forced us to kiss our alpine style dreams good bye. But we're still fighting to succeed!” the team posted on Facebook today.

Diamir Side Teams
Nanga Light and Italian teams arrived at Base Camp on December 27th. Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger, Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz were expected to go up for a few nights. They would have left BC on December 29th. The four mountaineers intend to climb the North Face, via unfinished Messner-Messner- Eisendle- Tomaseth route (2000).

Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi and Ali Sadpara started the trek from Chilas on 29th and should reach BC in a day or two. The trio will be sharing Kinshofer route with Poles.

Rupal Side
We have not received any recent update from Polish and Pakistani climbers on Schell route. The nine member team must be rope fixing and establishing camps above C1-A at 5500m.

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