Winter 2016 | Final Push for First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat (Live) | SUMMIT
(Article will be updated as summit-bid progresses. Updates can also be followed on Twitter and Facebook.)
We are theoretically hours away from first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, a quest that started in 1988/89. It’s a sunny, windless and cloudless day on the mountain, as climbers approach the summit trapezoid. Although, there hasn’t been any direct communication with the team, tracker of Alex Txikon shows that they left C4 early in the morning, as planned.
Day-4: C4
Setting out from C3 yesterday, the four climbers established C4 at the edge of Bazhin Basin (at an altitude of around 7100m-7200m). Weather conditions remained favorable throughout the day.
The team left C3 in two groups. Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro went up first, at around 0930hrs local time. Alex Txikon and Tamara Lunger dismantled the tent and arranged necessary gear for C4. They went up an hour later. While the team encountered icy conditions between C2 and C3, they were pleasantly surprised to find hard snow beyond last camp. It took them around six hours to reach C4.
Great Weather
February 26th dawned as a beautiful summit day, as predicted by meteorologists. Igone Mariezkurrena, Alex Txikon’s BC manager, sent photo of the mountain a while ago. It’s perfectly calm and there isn’t even a hint of clouds. The conditions are expected to remain good until tomorrow.
Marching Forward
Climbers can be seen marching forward. “No contact with BC, but Alex Txikon's RaceTracker indicates they're on the way and doing well! From here, with binoculars, we can already perceive them far away, getting closer to the base of the summit-trapeze, the mountain on the mountain. No windy at all.” Igone Mariezkurrena wrote a while ago.
A Full Day Climb Ahead
Of 31 Nanga Parbat winter expeditions, it’s only third time that climbers are within few hours distance from the top. In 1997, Polish climbers Krzysztof Pankiewicz and Zbigniew Trzmiel had to abort the attempt at 7850m due to health issues (Krzysztof Pankiewicz stopped hundred meters below). Last year, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and Daniele Nardi took a wrong turn; ending up in a dead end at 7800m.
Despite favorable conditions and good health of climbers, the summit day is still an exhausting battle. The climbers are expected to climb throughout the day and probably into the night as well. They will have to take care of the delicate balance between enthusiasm and being carried away by summit fever. Success or not, it’s going to be another historical day on Nanga Parbat.
Update-01 | 1130hrs Pakistan Time
Tracker shows that the climbers have reached an altitude of 7700m.
Update-02 | 1230hrs Pakistan Time
7800m!
Update-03 | 1245hrs Pakistan Time
At around 2PM local time, the tracker shows that the climbers are above 8000m . It's the highest point ever reached on Nanga Parbat (in winter). Summit is now less than hundreds meter.
Update-05 | 1545hrs Pakistan Time
It's official now.
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara have made the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Tamara Lunger stopped a little short (due to reason unknown as of now). The climbers are now on the way back.
We are theoretically hours away from first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, a quest that started in 1988/89. It’s a sunny, windless and cloudless day on the mountain, as climbers approach the summit trapezoid. Although, there hasn’t been any direct communication with the team, tracker of Alex Txikon shows that they left C4 early in the morning, as planned.
 |
| C4 on Kinshofer Route; Summit can be seen in background. Photo take in winter 2014/15; Source |
Day-4: C4
Setting out from C3 yesterday, the four climbers established C4 at the edge of Bazhin Basin (at an altitude of around 7100m-7200m). Weather conditions remained favorable throughout the day.
The team left C3 in two groups. Ali Sadpara and Simone Moro went up first, at around 0930hrs local time. Alex Txikon and Tamara Lunger dismantled the tent and arranged necessary gear for C4. They went up an hour later. While the team encountered icy conditions between C2 and C3, they were pleasantly surprised to find hard snow beyond last camp. It took them around six hours to reach C4.
 |
| Route from C3 to C4; Source |
Great Weather
February 26th dawned as a beautiful summit day, as predicted by meteorologists. Igone Mariezkurrena, Alex Txikon’s BC manager, sent photo of the mountain a while ago. It’s perfectly calm and there isn’t even a hint of clouds. The conditions are expected to remain good until tomorrow.
 |
| Nanga Parbat this morning; Source |
Marching Forward
Climbers can be seen marching forward. “No contact with BC, but Alex Txikon's RaceTracker indicates they're on the way and doing well! From here, with binoculars, we can already perceive them far away, getting closer to the base of the summit-trapeze, the mountain on the mountain. No windy at all.” Igone Mariezkurrena wrote a while ago.
A Full Day Climb Ahead
Of 31 Nanga Parbat winter expeditions, it’s only third time that climbers are within few hours distance from the top. In 1997, Polish climbers Krzysztof Pankiewicz and Zbigniew Trzmiel had to abort the attempt at 7850m due to health issues (Krzysztof Pankiewicz stopped hundred meters below). Last year, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and Daniele Nardi took a wrong turn; ending up in a dead end at 7800m.
Despite favorable conditions and good health of climbers, the summit day is still an exhausting battle. The climbers are expected to climb throughout the day and probably into the night as well. They will have to take care of the delicate balance between enthusiasm and being carried away by summit fever. Success or not, it’s going to be another historical day on Nanga Parbat.
Update-01 | 1130hrs Pakistan Time
Tracker shows that the climbers have reached an altitude of 7700m.
Update-02 | 1230hrs Pakistan Time
7800m!
Update-03 | 1245hrs Pakistan Time
Here's a photo and an updated from Base Camp.
"From BC we can easily see how they are climbing the first meters of the couloir that leads to the summit. Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger go together. Ali Sadpara preferred to go right and up on rocky terrain, we cannot perceive him now."
 |
| Photo from BC using binoculars; Source |
Update-04 | 1400hrs Pakistan Time
Update-05 | 1545hrs Pakistan Time
It's official now.
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara have made the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Tamara Lunger stopped a little short (due to reason unknown as of now). The climbers are now on the way back.
 |
| The 'fantastic' four! Source |
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