Winter 2016 | No Summit Window in Sight, Rift amongst Kinshofer Route Climbers

Nanga Parbat climbers remain in Base Camp, as strong wind hits the mountain. They, however, are keeping themselves busy in short trips to the foot of mountain and a little above whenever conditions allow. While hurricane winds are changing climbing conditions on the route, conflicts are also apparent amongst the climbers at Base Camp.

A Minor Accident
Bad weather essentially means strong wind in upper sections of the mountain, for now. It’s mostly sunny at Base Camp, without significant snowfall. Strong wind has, however, blown considerable amount of snow to lower sections of the route.

On January 29th, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon went up from BC to reopen the track leading to C1. They intended to reach the camp but a minor accident, without any serious consequences, forced them to retreat.

“It was in the channel that goes into the glacier, not very far away from BC, where a little cracking occurred trapping the climbers under the snow. Alex Txikon had almost his entire body covered, but fortunately he was able to take out the snow that was tightening his chest, and breathe. Ali Sadpara came to help his friend as soon as he also could release his legs.” Igone Mariezkurrena explained. “After the accident, they retook the way to C1, but a second fall, a smaller one, occurred in the same channel, and they definitely gave up and came back to BC.”
The accident site; Source

Brief Trip to C1
Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara made it to 5100m, together with Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro, during a short period of lower winds, earlier this week. Tamara and Simone deposited necessary gear in C1 (4800m). It was their first climb on Kinshofer Route. The duo was previously on North Face Northeast side route.

While climbing above C1, Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara observed that strong wind have changed the conditions considerably.

“Txikon and Sadpara found the terrain really different from how it was when they came down from C2, back in January 24: large chunks of ice have fallen from serac guarding part of the route, they also noted that some of the cracks are remarkably open. Strong wind these days has accumulated considerable amounts of snow in the first edges across the glacier, where they have been moving cautiously and always aware of possible landslides.”
Climbers on the way to C1 on Kinshofer route; Source

Rift amongst Climbers
There has been a split in international team. As obvious since a while, things were not going smooth between Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi. The two will not be working as a single unit, henceforth.

“On the other hand, it should be clarified what was already being evident for some time: The collaboration between Alex Txikon and Italian Daniele Nardi has become impossible due to obvious and constant disagreement as to how to proceed with this expedition - different rhythms of work or priorities, conflicting interpretations of some events, and disagreements also in the behavior at BC,” wrote Alex Txikon’s Base Camp team, yesterday.

While, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro have started working together for a potential summit push, Daniele Nardi’s plan for rest of the expedition are not known.
Alex Txikon, Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Tamara Lunger at BC; Source

Lastly, we don’t have any update from Cleo Weidlich and other climbers on Rupal side of the mountain.
Cleo Weidlich with Nanga Dream team in Rupal BC; Source
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