Sunday, July 27, 2014

Summer 2014 | Day 2 of K2 Summit Pushes - Update # 3

There were many summits on K2 yesterday; probably more than previous most summits on a single day. However, the story doesn't end here, as another summit bid is currently underway. This post will be updated with events of July 27th; second summit push and descent of group A.

Update 01 (27-July-14 04:30 hrs Pakistan Time)

The climbers going for summit today include American team (Garrett Madison, Alan Arnette, Matthew Dupuy and apparently three Sherpa), Finnish Samuli Mansikka and possibly an international team (Zdravko Dejanovic, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Reza Shahlai), if they didn't go for summit yesterday.

It's reported that American team left C4 at 22:40 hrs on July 26th. In a dispatch before leaving for summit push, Garrett Madison said, "Today is Saturday, July 26th at 6:00pm and we are up at High Camp with Alan and Matt. Our plan is to leave in about four hours for our summit push. A few climbers made the summit today and are on their way back now and we are very happy for them. It is snowing a little bit but when we get up tonight we will have clear skies while we are climbing up and early tomorrow morning"

From satellite position sent by the US climbers, it appears that they are currently negotiating the final sections of Traverse.

Update 02 (27-July-14 10:20 hrs Pakistan Time)

SUMMITs! The successful stories from the top of K2 continue as almost all remaining climbers made it to the summit, today.

1. Samuli Mansikka tweeted, "I AM ON SUMMIT OF K2!! The very highest point 8611m! Beautiful day although maybe the hardest I've done! No bottled oxygen, no support!"

2. Next the success of American team was announced at around 08:00 hrs. Following members of team reached the top.
Alan Arnette – USA
Matthew Dupuy – USA
Garrett Madison – USA
Kami Rita Sherpa – Thame Solu Khumbu, Nepal
Fur Kancha Sherpa – Thame Solu Khumbu, Nepal
Kami Tshering Sherpa – Pangbotse, Nepal

As of now, we can't confirm whether there were any other summit attempts, today.

Update 03 (28-July-14 04:20 hrs Pakistan Time)

The above mentioned International expedition was indeed part of summit push yesterday, and was successful in reaching the top. "Today(27th) All team member summit K2" was the message from the team.

Confirmed summiteers are Iranian Reza Shahlaee and Macedonian Zdravko Dejanovic. Full list of climbers reaching the summit is awaited, yet.

On a side note, a third summit push is underway on K2, as Polish team and Bulgarian climber Boyan Petrov, who summited Broad Peak few days ago, leave the Base Camp tonight. They're targeting August 1st as summit day.

Update 04 (28-July-14 15:00 hrs Pakistan Time)

More from K2; Spaniard Miguel Angel Perez has reached the summit of K2 at around 1300hrs, today (July 28th). On 26th he had to turned back 300m below summit, due to cold. After resting and recovering, he went for the summit, today.

The summit of K2 at sunrise; Source

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Saturday, July 26, 2014

Summer 2014 | K2 Summits on July 26th / Updated

July 26th is an extraordinary day in the history of K2. After the prolonged weather window, more than 35 climbers launched the summit bid from C4 at around 20:00 hrs on July 25th evening. First summit reports arrived at around 15:00 hrs on July 26th.

The updates from summit push appeared here. In this post, we compile the names of climbers who made it to the summit.

The shadow of K2 as captured by Chris B warner, when he reached the summit in 2007.

Summits (by first hand reports)
1. Tamara Lunger (Italy)
2. Nikolaus Gruber (Italy)
3. Radek Jaros (Czech)
4. Travnicek Jan (Czech)
5. Adrian Hayes (UK)
6. Hassan Jan (Pakistan)
7. Ali Durani (Pakistan)
8. Rahmat Ullah Baig (Pakistan)
9. Ghulam Mehdi (Pakistan)
10. Ali (Pakistan)
11. Muhammad Sadiq (Pakistan)
12. Michele Cucchi  (Italy)
13. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa (Nepal)
14. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (Nepal)
15. Maya Sherpa (Nepal)
16. Giuseppe Pompili (Italy)
17. Amin Baig (Pakistan)
18. Ferran Latorre (Spain)
 19. Chris Jensen Burke (NZ/Aus)
20.  Lakpa Sherpa (Nepal)
21. Tsering Sherpa (Nepal)
22.  Al Hancock (Canada)

Reported Summits which I couldn't confirm from first-hand reports:-
1. Luo Jing (China)
2-9. Eight Sherpa (Nepal)
10. Basheer (Pakistan)
Awaiting News about climbers who were on summit push today:-
1. Alexandros Aravidis (Greece)
2. Panagiotis Athanasiadis (Greece)
3. Cleo Weidlich (USA)
4. Some Sherpa with Cleo (Nepal)

Updates:-
1. Chris Burke has confirmed three names; Herself, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshring Sherpa. So article is being updated accordingly. Moreover, she says, there were 32 summits on K2, that day.

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Summer 2014 | K2 - Day 1 of Summit Push - Update # 9

Thanks to Daniele Nardi at K2 C4 documenting the Pakistani-Italian expedition, the EvK2CNR team at BC monitoring the progress and montagna.tv correspondents in Italy connected directly with K2 BC, we shall be receiving regular updates on summit push, directly from the mountain. This post will be updated, as information reaches us.

Update 01 (26-July-14 04:30 hrs Pakistan Time)

The summit push began at 20:00 hrs last night. Four Pakistani climbers Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah and Ghulam Mehdi - all climbing without supplemental oxygen - went up with 300m of rope to fix the difficult and dangerous sections of the route to the top i.e. bottleneck and the traverse. They were joined by three Sherpa climbing with bottled oxygen.

At around 01:00 hrs, they could be seen at the bottom of bottleneck, says Stefania Mondini of EvK2Cnr team at K2 Base Camp. The last communication with Daniele Nardi took place at 00:50 hrs local time. Several climbers had left the C4, by then.

- At 22:00 hrs, the other three members of Pakistani team (Muhammad Sadiq, Ali and Muhammad Hassan) went up.
- Italian climbers Giuseppe Pompili and Simone Origone left C4 at around 11:30PM. Giuseppe Pompili is accompanied by Pakistani HAP Amin Baig.
- Finally, at 00:30 hrs Michele Cucchi, Tamara Lunger and Klaus Gruber started the summit bid. By this time, several other climbers had also left the camp.

Daniele Nardi's next call to BC is expected at 05:00hrs. We shall update the information, as details of communication arrive.

Update 02 (26-July-14 09:45 hrs Pakistan Time)

From the communication of this morning, it appears that summit push is going well. " ... normally from there it takes 2 or 2.5 hours to reach the top. The nice thing is that our Pakistanis are in the front, particularly Ali Durrani, who is a boy of 24 years. He is going ahead with 3 Sherpas: he climbs without oxygen, Sherpas with oxygen," commented Agostino Da Polenza from Base Camp.

However, two members from the expedition, Pakistani Hassan and Italian Simone, returned to C4 because of headache. All others are going well.

Update 03 (26-July-14 10:45 hrs Pakistan Time)

"Radek Jaros and Travnicek Jan are 300 vertical meters below summit," says the home-team of Czech climbers. Third member of the team, Petr Masek, is in C4.

Update 04 (26-July-14 12:30 hrs Pakistan Time)

From Mingma Sherpa, the head of Seven Summit Treks agency: Very good news; Seven Summit Treks K2 team is at 8450m. Within 50 minutes they (are expected to) reach the summit. Our team is of 19 persons; Another 8 will attempt tonight.

Update 05 (26-July-14 12:40 hrs Pakistan Time)

Just in from K2 BC, "The Sherpas, who are in touch with their Nepalese cook, have told that the group is 100 meters from the summit."

Update 06 (26-July-14 14:50 hrs Pakistan Time)

Multiple SUMMITs on K2!

As per initial reports from K2 Base Camp, six members of Pakistani expedition reached the top without supplemental oxygen. Names of the climbers: Hassan Jan, Ali Durani, Rahmat Ullah Baig, Ghulam Mehdi, Ali and Muhammad Sadiq.

Moreover, members of Italian Expedition, Tamara Lunger and Klaus Gruber, have also summited. It's reported that multiple Sherpas were on the top, as well.

Further details and more possible summits will be added as updates arrive from the mountain.

Update 07 (26-July-14 15:40 hrs Pakistan Time)

"Most excited moment of the journey the successful summit at 3:35 pm," wrote the Nepalese Female Expedition team.

Update 08 (26-July-14 15:55 hrs Pakistan Time)

British adventurer Adrian Hayes summited K2 at 1520 hrs local time.

Update 09 (26-July-14 16:40 hrs Pakistan Time)

Czech climb Radek Jaros also summited at 16:04 hrs local time. With this he completed the 14x8000ers, becoming the first Czech mountaineer to do so.

Access full list of summits today, here: Summer 2014 | K2 Summits on July 26th

The upper sections of K2; Source

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Friday, July 25, 2014

Summer 2014 | K2 Summit bid - Time for the Ultimate Push

Weather is holding, snow conditions are good, forecast is promising and majority of climbers reached C4 (7800m), this afternoon. After resting and eating/drinking for a few hours, it’s the time for the ultimate push. It’s the time to go to the summit of K2.

“All of us face 24 hours in our lives that are critical and these are 24 hours in my life that certainly are. The stakes are high; 6 weeks preparation and acclimatizing, six months hard training, last year's tragic aborted attempt and three years planning all comes down to this 24hrs.” British climber Adrian Hayes expressed his feelings from C4, this afternoon.

Leaving C4

“At 19:30 local time three Pakistanis and some Sherpas will start to equip the Bottleneck,” Agostino Da Polenza told Montagna.tv from K2 Base Camp, whereas other climbers were scheduled to leave for the summit from 21:00 hrs local time onwards.

C4 on K2; Source

Who is on Summit Push?

Yesterday afternoon, after climbing from C2 to C3, Lakpa and two other Sherpa fixed portion of route from C3 to C4. Today, it’s reported that almost all climbers from first summit push group have reached C4. The teams expected to launch summit-bid tonight are:-

1. Pakistani-Italian Expedition (07 climbers from Pakistan, 03 from Italy)
2. Three Nepalese female climbers
3. Chris Burke and Lakpa Sherpa
4. International Expedition (Al Hancock, Adrian Hayes, Luo Jing)
5. Italian Expedition (Giuseppe Pompili, Tamara Lunger, Nikolaus Gruber, Amin Baig)
6. Czech climbers (Radek Jaros, Petr Masek, Travnicek Jan)
7. Alexandros Aravidis and Panagiotis Athanasiadis - the Greeks
8. Cleo Weidlich and Sherpa (who reached C4 via Cesen route)

It’s reported that there are around a dozen Sherpa in C4, who will be sharing the task of trail breaking and fixing bottleneck, traverse and other dangerous sections of the route, with Pakistani climbers.

Spanish climbers Ferran Latorre and Miguel Ángel Pérez are also in C4, but they will established a fifth camp at 8300m before summit bid.

14x8000ers

It’s reported that K2 will be 14th 8000er for Czech climber Radek Jaros, if he is successful in reaching the top.

Second group

Samuli Mansikka reached C3 this afternoon, “just got to Camp 3 (7450m)! Beautiful in the morning but now cloudy. We can only hope weather holds rest of the week.” American team has also reached C3 after a tiring climb. They are expected to climb to C4 tomorrow and towards summit on 27th, if weather doesn’t deteriorate.

Italian climbers tackling Black Pyramid (at above 7000m) on July 15th. Photo: Samuli Mansikka

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