Spring 2013 | Kanchenjunga & Lhotse | Bad Weather Causes Change in Plans

Recent update on Everest Expeditions appeared here. In this blog post, extracts from Kanchenjunga and Lhotse climbs are presented while for other Himalayan peaks (Makalu, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma) a blog post shall be presented soon.
As of now, I am unaware of any expedition to Annapurna and Cho Oyu. If you've knowledge of any, kindly do let me know.

Updates on Kanchenjunga Expeditions 2013
Kangchenjunga is the Eastern most Himalayan eight-thousander and is situated at Indian/Nepalese border. Rising 8586 meters above sea level, it's the third highest peak in the world. Kanchenjunga's enormous altitude makes it difficult to climb. Unlike the Central Himalayan peaks, Kanchenjunga doesn't attract a big crowd of mountaineers and is usually attempted by mature climbers.

Parvaneh Kazemi from Iran reached the Kangchenjunga Base Camp as per plan but couldn't proceed to higher camps because of heavy snow. Snowing started a few days back and conditions might remain unfavorable for some time. She reports that currently all teams in the region are stuck in BC.
Carlos Soria and his country-mates had Puja ceremony on 16th April, and hence the team was all set to climb the third highest peak in the world. Although weather was snowy and cloudy but the Spaniards climbed to 6000m and established C1. Carlos says that the first moments on the mountain are memorable. Next task for the team is to spend a night in C1 and establish C2. Carlos hopes that this would be done by the end of this week. "The sooner we are ready for the summit push, the better it would be", feels the 74 year old climber.
No further updates (after 16th April) are available from Spanish Oscar Cadiach's expedition and the International Expedition with mountaineers from Korea, China, Slovakia and Hungary.
Parvaneh at Kanchenjunga BC. Image Source

Spring 2013 Lhotse Expeditions
Everest's sister Lhotse (8485m) is the Fourth highest mountain in the world. Everest and Lhotse are connected via South Col. The south face of Lhotse is amongst the biggest walls in the world and presents great amount of difficulty to climbers and hence is seldom attempted. Most of the Everest South and Lhotse climbers share BC and Higher camps till C3, from where Everest seekers turn left. In recent years, Lhotse has been attracting more climbers supposedly because of rush on Everest.

Three Russians (Victor Koval, Sergey Kondrashkin, Alex Borodenko) from Saint-Petersburg reached the Everest BC on 19th, where they were welcomed by fellow country-men Alexey Bolotov and Denis Urubko. The trio would be climbing Lhotse without any support. They are currently resting and getting ready to work on the route.

Alex Txikon and other Spanish climber attempting Nuptse and Lhotse this season, returned back to Everest BC after the rest at Namache Bazar. They spent a night acclimatizing at Pumori BC. And just today they've returned from 6450m campsite.

Through Icefall; Photo: Alex Txikon

Romanians/Slovak Horia Colibasanu, Justin Ionescu, Peter Hamor have reached Everest BC. They would be acclimatizing on Island peak (6189m) and in nearby region for two weeks before pushing for Lhotse summit without Oxygen and in alpine style. Peter wanted to climb Pumori Peak too but couldn't obtain the permit.

The 14x8000er candidate, Ferran (Fernando) Lattore have reached the Everest Base camp. During the trek to BC, he also went to Island Peak BC for acclimatization.

As mentioned in Everest blog update, Pune Everest/Lhotse Expedition 2013 team is also ready for trips above icefall. The team will split into two after C3 on Lhotse face. Everest climbers would turn left while Lhotse team would head right.

UK based adventure climber, Paul Keleher summited Everest last year and is attempting Lhotse now. He too has just reached EBC. He would be resting for a couple of days before starting the acclimatization and climbing icefall.

The Himalayan Ascent team is making good progress with acclimatization process. As Chris Jensen Burke reported yesterday, they are done with second round of acclimatization. Second rotation involves spending nights in C2. But their plan had to change as one of their team members showed symptoms of AMS.

Peak Freaks Camp 2 Mount Everest
Lhotse Camp-2; Image Source

Peakfreaks are in C2 since a couple days. You can read detailed updates from team here.

Check the Icefall training and other dispatches from Adventure Consultants team here.

The movement of Icefall and bad weather have stopped Macro Confortola from reaching C2. Read the Australian climbers facebook diaries here.

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