Spring 2013 | Summits and Summit Pushes On Himalayan Peaks
Himalayan climbing season is in it's final stages. Here is a review of action away from Everest region.
Summits on Kangchenjunga
On 19th May, Kangchenjunga climbers were slightly confused about whether to take C4 further up (from current position of 7500m to 7700m) or launch summit bid from established C4. Eventually they went with the former option. Leaving C4 (7500m) yesterday night, many climbers reached Kangchenjunga summit today (20th May).
Iranian lady Parvaneh Kazemi, who previously reached 8200m, had to abort her summit push yet again because of lungs and throat infection. But her fellow country-man Raza Shahlai made it to the top along with Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and two Koreans. They reached the summit at 1500hrs local time.
After 24 hours of laborious climb, Hungarians Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss also summited at 1800hrs local time. Their Slovak partner Jaroslav Dutka couldn’t take part in summit push due to sore throat and general weakness.
74 years old Spanish climber Carlos Soria narrowly missed the summit. He had to turn back from 8300m. The final leg of climb, 1100 meters from C4 to summit, proved to be too long and took more time than anticipated. Carlos Soria has a record of never being rescued from the mountain and he wanted to keep it the same. He returned back to C4 after 23 hours, exhausted but in good health.
At the moment it’s not confirmed whether Catalonian and Italian climbers also reached the top or not.
Makalu Push
Teams on Makalu are also marching towards summit.
Young Indians Arjun Vajpai and Krushnaa Patel, Colombian Fernando González and Georgian Gia Tortladze reached C3 (7400m) this morning at 1030Hrs local time, while American Tonya Clement was approaching the camp. Another American climber Will Cross decided to stay in C2 (6600m) for rest and recovery. It’s unclear at the moment whether he will resume the climb or turn back. Rest of the team is aiming summit on 22nd May.
Polish duo Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia were last to started the summit climb. The moved to C2 from BC, today; hoping to reach the summit on 23rd May.
Swiss team attempting West Pillar in alpine style with subsequent crossing and descent via the normal route has to change plans at the eleventh hour. During last acclimatization trip, Stephan Siegrist suffered a severe headache (in the area where he had a fracture few years back) and had to quit the expedition. Michi Wärthl, Hans Mitterer, David Göttler and Danie Bartsch have now decided to attempt normal route. They were hoping to start from BC on 18th or 19th.
Finnish Samuli Mansikka has also started the summit bid and is at 7400m now. “Am amazed to have found my tent in place after 2 weeks of strong jetstreams up here” – says the mountaineer
Wait on Manaslu
Catalonians Raul Corominas and PeterHerms reached C3 as per plan, but could start the summit bid on 20th due to strong winds and poor visibility. They are still in C3 hoping weather to improve. Summit push of Peter and Raul would consist of 1400 vertical meters climb.
Cho Oyu
Summitclimb Cho Oyu team is in C2 (7100m) now, hoping to ascend to C3 tonight. Their plan is to reach the top on 22nd May. Three members of the team Debbie, Reinhard and Stephanie has already called it off while rest of the group is battling against tough conditions on the mountain.
More Shishapangma Central Summits
According russianclimb, two Kazakhs Andrew Puchinin and Serguey Seliverstov reached the Central summit (8013m) of Shishapangma on 19th May. No more details are available about this attempt on Shisha.
Dhaulagiri
Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) expedition has started it's summit climb with six members. Two members Marcin Miotk and Jacek Żyłka Żebracki had to quit the expedition because of health issues. Rest of the team started the summit quest on 19th May. After spending nights in C1 and C2, they will be reaching C3 on 21st. Summit push is expected on 22nd May.
French expedition was called off after previous summit attempt at the start of May.
The GPS of AMICAL alpin team shows that they are also on the mountain trying to reach the summit. Team has either reached C3 or would be reaching there tonight.
After spending couple of nights in C2, Pawel Michalski and Simone la Terra has reached 7400m today. They wanted to stretch 300m further for summit push, but hurricane winds made the climb difficult.
Catalonian Team of Juanjo Garra, Manuel 'Lolo' González and Enrique Osiel is also in C2, hoping to reach 7400m on 21st May. Summit push can be expected on 22nd May.
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Summits on Kangchenjunga
On 19th May, Kangchenjunga climbers were slightly confused about whether to take C4 further up (from current position of 7500m to 7700m) or launch summit bid from established C4. Eventually they went with the former option. Leaving C4 (7500m) yesterday night, many climbers reached Kangchenjunga summit today (20th May).
Iranian lady Parvaneh Kazemi, who previously reached 8200m, had to abort her summit push yet again because of lungs and throat infection. But her fellow country-man Raza Shahlai made it to the top along with Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and two Koreans. They reached the summit at 1500hrs local time.
After 24 hours of laborious climb, Hungarians Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss also summited at 1800hrs local time. Their Slovak partner Jaroslav Dutka couldn’t take part in summit push due to sore throat and general weakness.
74 years old Spanish climber Carlos Soria narrowly missed the summit. He had to turn back from 8300m. The final leg of climb, 1100 meters from C4 to summit, proved to be too long and took more time than anticipated. Carlos Soria has a record of never being rescued from the mountain and he wanted to keep it the same. He returned back to C4 after 23 hours, exhausted but in good health.
At the moment it’s not confirmed whether Catalonian and Italian climbers also reached the top or not.
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| Climbers toward summit; Source |
Makalu Push
Teams on Makalu are also marching towards summit.
Young Indians Arjun Vajpai and Krushnaa Patel, Colombian Fernando González and Georgian Gia Tortladze reached C3 (7400m) this morning at 1030Hrs local time, while American Tonya Clement was approaching the camp. Another American climber Will Cross decided to stay in C2 (6600m) for rest and recovery. It’s unclear at the moment whether he will resume the climb or turn back. Rest of the team is aiming summit on 22nd May.
Polish duo Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia were last to started the summit climb. The moved to C2 from BC, today; hoping to reach the summit on 23rd May.
Swiss team attempting West Pillar in alpine style with subsequent crossing and descent via the normal route has to change plans at the eleventh hour. During last acclimatization trip, Stephan Siegrist suffered a severe headache (in the area where he had a fracture few years back) and had to quit the expedition. Michi Wärthl, Hans Mitterer, David Göttler and Danie Bartsch have now decided to attempt normal route. They were hoping to start from BC on 18th or 19th.
Finnish Samuli Mansikka has also started the summit bid and is at 7400m now. “Am amazed to have found my tent in place after 2 weeks of strong jetstreams up here” – says the mountaineer
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| The Swiss team; Source |
Wait on Manaslu
Catalonians Raul Corominas and PeterHerms reached C3 as per plan, but could start the summit bid on 20th due to strong winds and poor visibility. They are still in C3 hoping weather to improve. Summit push of Peter and Raul would consist of 1400 vertical meters climb.
Cho Oyu
Summitclimb Cho Oyu team is in C2 (7100m) now, hoping to ascend to C3 tonight. Their plan is to reach the top on 22nd May. Three members of the team Debbie, Reinhard and Stephanie has already called it off while rest of the group is battling against tough conditions on the mountain.
More Shishapangma Central Summits
According russianclimb, two Kazakhs Andrew Puchinin and Serguey Seliverstov reached the Central summit (8013m) of Shishapangma on 19th May. No more details are available about this attempt on Shisha.
 |
| Manaslu; Source |
Dhaulagiri
Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) expedition has started it's summit climb with six members. Two members Marcin Miotk and Jacek Żyłka Żebracki had to quit the expedition because of health issues. Rest of the team started the summit quest on 19th May. After spending nights in C1 and C2, they will be reaching C3 on 21st. Summit push is expected on 22nd May.
French expedition was called off after previous summit attempt at the start of May.
The GPS of AMICAL alpin team shows that they are also on the mountain trying to reach the summit. Team has either reached C3 or would be reaching there tonight.
After spending couple of nights in C2, Pawel Michalski and Simone la Terra has reached 7400m today. They wanted to stretch 300m further for summit push, but hurricane winds made the climb difficult.
Catalonian Team of Juanjo Garra, Manuel 'Lolo' González and Enrique Osiel is also in C2, hoping to reach 7400m on 21st May. Summit push can be expected on 22nd May.
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| Around Dhaulagiri C2; Source |
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