Summer 2013 | Teams Arrive in Pakistan

After an eventful spring season with more than six hundred summits on Everest and approximately one hundred summits elsewhere, new records, unfortunate demise of several gallant climbers and many attempts without success, the altitude-climbing action is now shifting to Karakoram and Western Himalayas.

Islamabad acts as gateway for the expeditions to five 8000m peaks located inside Pakistan’s territory. Despite hundreds of climbers kicking off their endeavors from here, the Kathmandu-like hustle and bustle never develops in Pakistani capital. Teams have started arriving in Islamabad; a few have already reached the mountains, while others are just setting off from their home countries. Arrivals shall continue throughout the month of June. Many climbers who attempted Himalayan peaks in spring are currently resting and recovering for summer challenges.

Detailed list of expeditions to Karakoram and Western Himalayas (Pakistan) appeared here.

Climbers on Broad Peak; K2 in background. Photo: M. Berbeka

After three consecutive years without success from Southside, 2012 was eventually a fruitful year on K2 when more than two dozen climbers reached the top. Japanese Tochige K2 Expedition 2013 would be hoping for similar success this year. Their team is an amalgam of eight climbers from different age group.
Another expedition, ‘Lela’s International K2 Expedition 2013’ will attempt K2 and some climbers will also try Gasherbrums (GI and GII), this year. This group consists of strong climbers from Spain, Mexico, Lithuania and Canada. Third team, New Zealand/Nepal Expedition has a plan of attempting both Broad Peak and K2, this summer.

Nanga Parbat
The Western Himalayan peak, also called ‘Killer Mountain’, is attracting more teams this year. Majority of teams will be climbing Kinshofer Route on Diamir side (except Romaninans who will be on Schell's Route, Rupal Side).

Three locals, Karim Hayyat (known for winter 2013 Broad Peak rescue efforts), Naseer Uddin and Sher Khan, reached the BC a week ago and have already established C1 on Kinshofer route, Diamir Face. It would be first 8000er for each of them, if successful. Also a 19-member international team led by 30 year old Polish lady, Aleksandra Dzik, is currently on the way to the mountain.

On Nanga Parbat there will also be one team from Ukraine, two from Romania and an expedition from China. A Polish three-member team, consisting of Bogus Magrel, Wlodek Kierus and Adam Stadnik, was scheduled to fly towards Islamabad on June 6th. Turkish Tunc Findik is also planning to reach Islamabad this week. He will be joined by Mingma Sherpa, Alex Gavan, Fabrice Imparato and Azim Gheichisaz to climb Nanga Parbat.

Kinshofer Route on Diamir Side Nanga Parbat

Broad Peak
One significant expedition to Broad Peak would be led by Jacek Berbeka, brother of late Maciej Berbeka. Maciej and Tomasz Kowalski died during descent after achieving first Winter ascent of the peak earlier this year. The aim of this expedition is recover the bodies of Maciej and Tomasz, try to bring them down to BC or "gracefully" bury them on the mountain. Jacek Jawien, Jacek Hugo-Bader and Krzysztof Tarasiewicz are also joining Jacek Berbeka on this expedition. Teams from Austria, Germany and America would also be climbing Broad Peak this year.

Several teams would be attempting Gasherbrums (GI and GII), this year. Polish Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan will attempt both peaks without oxygen. Their plan is to summit the two peaks via the normal route in a style closer to alpine climbing.

An international expedition led by Dutch Arnold Coster, including members from Belgium, Ireland and USA, would kick off in third week of June. They have the permission to climb both Gasherbrums. Similarly Czech and German teams would also be climbing both GI and GII.

Three climbing groups from Switzerland, China and Russia will attempt GII only. New Zealander Chris Burke will also be attempting both Gasherbrums, whereas Mexican couple Badia and Mauricio Lopez Bonilla will attempt GI and Broad Peak. The couple is focusing on Badia's 14x8000ers quest.

Other Climbs
Apart from above mentioned expeditions to well-known 8000m peaks, many individuals and small groups are heading to rarely visited lower peaks. Despite being minor in height, these mountains present great adventure and methodological challenges. Further details about such climbs can be seen in preliminary list of expeditions to Pakistan.

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This article also appeared at Explorersweb.
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