Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Summer 2013 | Significant Events on Broad Peak, Bad Weather All Around

AMICAL alpin teams bagged the first summit of the summer 2013 climbing season, when Austrian climber Josef Inhoger reached the top of Broad Peak (8051) on July 4th. Summit push started at 2:00AM under clear skies with moderate wind, but the climb proved to be tougher and exhausting, majorly because of excessive snow and no established route. Several climbers turned back before reaching 8000m altitude. It’s reported that six other climbers arrived at Foresummit (8035m), but couldn’t proceed to the main summit of Broad Peak.

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Climbing towards C1 on Broad Peak; Photo: Brad Jackson

Broad Peak Main Summit on 04-July-2013:
1. Josef Inhoger (Austria)

Broad Peak Forsummit on 04-July-2013:
1. Harry Nikol (Germany)
2. Paul Gürtler (Austria)
3. Reinhold Auzinger (Austria)
4. Josef Rieser (Austria)
5. Alexander Holleis (Austria)
6. Robert Hochreiter (Austria)

AMICAL alpin team will be returning home, now.

Accidents at Broad Peak BC
In an unfortunate incident at Broad Peak Base Camp, a German lady fell and disappeared into glacier water steam, while returning from higher camp. Her body was located and later recovered by Concordia Rescue Team, after two days of hard work. The deceased climber has been identified as Dana H. who was part of a German Expedition.

Brian Richard of FTA Team also suffered a leg injury below C1, while returning from an acclimatization trip. He was assisted to come down to BC and is currently waiting for a helicopter rescue to Skardu, which shall be possible once weather improves.

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Concordia Rescue Team; Photo: A. Da Polenza

Nanga Parbat
Romanians have descended to lower camp, now and are waiting for another summit weather window. Forecast suggests a full week of bad weather on Nanga Parbat.

K2
All teams trekking to K2 have arrived at Base Camp, whereas Japanese Expedition and Swiss Team reached C2, before returning to BC due to bad weather. Climbing will resume once weather improves.

Gasherbrums
GI and GII teams, who were trekking last week, have reached the BC and are going through acclimatization, now. AMICAL alpin team is also in BC after tagging C3, last week. They are now ready for summit push. Spanish Patxi Goñi and Oscar Cadiach are currently on Baltoro Glacier marching towards GI Base Camp, while four Czech climbers (Marek Holecek, Zdenek Hruby, Marek Novotny, Tomas Petrecek) will be arriving in Pakistan to attempt GI & GII.

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Another version of this article appeared at Explorersweb.

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