Autumn 2013 | Summit Bids Underway

Summit pushes are underway on Shishapangma, Manaslu and Cho Oyu. Weather is forecasted to remain favorable on these mountains till Thursday. Makalu Team has established C3 and is resting before summit push. At Everest Base Camp, the Italians are joined by a South Korean team.

Weather on Manaslu had a pleasant change, this weekend. Sudden rain and snow on 20th was followed by a forecast of at least five good days. It was fair enough to motivate several teams to go for the summit. It’s reported that around 60 climbers will be making summit push on September 25th.

The teams going for summit include a Chinese Expedition of which Turkish climber Tunc Findik is part of, Russell Brice’s team with around two dozen climbers and Sherpas, and Altitude Junkies Expedition led by Phil Crampton. Renowned Everest blogger, Alan Arnette, is part of Altitude Junkies Team. The teams have reached C3 on September 23rd. They will ascend to C4 on 24th and go for summit on 25th.

Other teams are still working on their acclimatization plans or waiting for a summit window. The Romanian team is back at BC after the acclimatization rotation. They were planning for summit on 27th, but the weather doesn’t seem promising. Italians, Alice Cavallera and Alberto Pacellini, are also waiting for a summit window. Spanish climber, Xevi Arias, is also at BC.

Austrian Ski Expedition is on the mountain for acclimatization. They were hoping to spend the night in C3.
Manslu; Source

Cho Oyu
Good weather is reported from Cho Oyu, where first summit push of the season is underway. Adrian Ballinger and Sergey Baranov along with a group of Sherpas have reached C1 on September 23rd. Tomorrow, Sergey will ascend to C2, whereas Adrian will go all the way to C3 with Lhakpa Rita. They will be first climbers to go above C2, this season.

Weather is expected to remain favorable till 25th, when aforementioned climbers will make the summit bid. Bad weather with a lot of snow is forecasted, from September 26th onwards.

Two members of Ski Shishapangma expedition, Dave and Rich, were expected to make the summit push, today. “Mon 23rd Sept, clear skies over Shishapangma, the team are making their summit bid today, but no sign of them as of 07:20 Nepal time; probably still cooking bacon and eggs in their tent,” wrote the support team, this morning.

At the moment, it’s not known whether the duo went for summit or not. Rich and Dave left ABC on 20th, spent a day in C1 and reached C2 yesterday (on 22nd). They are the first climbers to go above C2, this season.

Hungarian lady, Lestak Erzsebet, was planning to start the summit push from BC on September 22nd. The Swiss team also completed their acclimatization, last week and were all set for the summit climb.

International expedition members, Eelco Jansen and Frank Lotthrincx from Netherlands, Jakob Urth from Denmark and Italian Danilo Callegari are still busy in acclimatization. They left ABC today, hoping to reach C2 and possibly C3, before returning to BC. Danilo suffered a minor fall, this morning when an ice block broke. He landed in a waist-deep water pool, soaking his clothes and backpacks. In order to dry the stuff and heal the wounds, Danilo stayed at 5900m. He will be going to C1/C2, tomorrow.

Polish climber Andrzej Bargiel has the plan to acclimatize to C2 and C3, this week. Carlos Soria has been training on a peak near ABC, today.

The Argentine and American climber Sebastian Satke, Nani-k Stahringer, Josh Garner, Jacob Schmitz and April Mayhew, are all set for summit push starting by the mid of this week. They established C3 at 7400m, before returning to ABC on 21st. In a message to the home team, the climbers wrote, "will you arrange for the porters to come on 9/30&10/3?" Probably they will be done with summit bid, by then.

Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli of Lhotse Ski Challenge are back at BC, after spending a night in C1 at 6000m. Climb to C1 was exhausting, particularly due to fresh snow and bad weather. They negotiated the Ice Fall without ladders, ropes and porters (as the hired porters were unable to ascend the Ice Fall without fixed ropes and ladders).

However, the team reports that a Korean expedition arrived at BC, today. They are provisioned with ladders and ropes that should be “sufficient to ascend the Empire State Building”. At the moment, it’s not known whether they will be climbing Lhotse or Everest. The Italians are hoping to work together with Koreans to fix the route to C2. New Sherpas for the Italian team has also arrived, today.

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