Winter 2014 | Acclimatization and Fixing on Schell Route

After a week of climbing in improved weather, Nanga Parbat teams are back at Base Camp, now. They will rest and recover for next round during forecasted three days of bad weather. The North Face team has established C1 (5100m), while Polish climbers were reportedly slightly short of C2 on Schell Route. After discontinuing the expedition and recovering the gear from 4900m, Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski have left the region.

Simone Moro, Emilio and David
In first round of acclimatization, the North Face team has spent a night in C1 at 5100m (around 1500m above their Base Camp in Lattabo). After reaching the BC on December 31st, they kicked off the climbing on January 3rd, when David Gottler and Simone Moro went up to spend a night at 4100m and rise as high as 5000m.

On 5th, Simone returned to BC, while Emilio Previtali and David stayed in ABC. On January 6th, Emilio came down to BC, while David and Simone established the C1 proper at 5100m. They also spent a night there, before returning to BC.

Dinner at North Face tent; Source

The Dinner
The Polish team helped Simone, David and Emilio in setting up dome tent, as the latter arrived at BC on Dec 31st. But right after that, Poles went up the mountain and the two teams didn’t get a chance to sit together. However on Jan 7th, Poles were invited by German/Italians for the dinner. “Dinner with the Polish team yesterday in BC, talking about motorbikes, crazy travels, Nanga, vodka and drones,” wrote Emilio.

The relationship between the teams has been quite collaborative, so far. “… idea is to try to be of help in some way, at least at the base camp for the moment, since they [Poles] are ahead on the mountain, having arrived 20 days before us,” wrote Simone on Jan 5th.

David and Moro with Schell route in background; Photo: David

The Polish Team
According to Simone Moro, the Polish team has equipped route to an altitude of 5800m. C2 on Schell Route is traditionally established at 6100m.

Rupal Face BC this morning; Photo: Simone Moro

Ralf Dujmovits
Ralf’s decision to conclude winter Nanga Parbat attempt at an early stage may have appeared strange to few, but it proved to be absolutely correct when an ice avalanche struck the route, very next day. The avalanche came down when Ralf and Darek were descending after dismantling the tent at 4900m. “We were very lucky!” wrote the German climber.

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