Winter 2014 | Nanga Parbat Summit Push Update - Feb 26th

Summit push updates appear at the bottom of this post. Last updated at 1400hrs (Feb 27th) Pakistan Time.

Tomek Mackiewicz, Simone Moro, David Gottler, Pawel Dunaj and Jacek Teler have spent several weeks at Nanga Parbat BC in anticipation of a summit window. Statistically speaking, of the 17 previous winter attempts on Nanga Parbat, no one ever stayed at BC for so long. Heretofore, the adverse weather and challenging mountain conditions had forced everyone to return home, before the mid of February.

Since the month of March is known for excessive snowfall and continuous avalanches, this will probably be the final summit push of the season from Rupal side. Whether summit or not, the North Face team has confirmed that they will return home after this shot. Bureaucratic and financial/logistics matters haunt the Polish climbers, as well.

Hence, the intensity of climb is reaching its peak, emotionally, physically and psychologically. Tomek Mackiewicz has been climbing in solitude since Feb 21st despite the bad weather. Emilio Previtali observed the David and Simone showing signs of anxiety and nervousness. “(They) both tried not to show it, but obviously they were quite nervous today, and yesterday.”

Once reached C3, the climbers will march into the unfamiliar conditions above 7000m. More about upper sections of Schell route can be read in my previous post, here.

Justice for All
The members of Polish expedition are currently in three different camps on the mountain. The expedition leader Tomek Mackiewicz who left the Base Camp five days ago, was in C2-A (6300m), yesternight. He climbed in strong wind to reach Camp-3 (probably at around 6700m), today.

Pawel Dunaj and Jacek Teler arrived at C1, yesterday. This morning, they left for C2 but feeling cold in one of his feet, Jacek decided to retreat to C1. Pawel continued the ascension and is currently in C2.

The North Face
Simone Moro and David Gottler launched the final attempt of the season to reach Nanga Parbat summit, today. They departed from BC at around 1PM and were in C1, by the evening.

Their plan is to climb directly to C3 tomorrow and then on Friday, together with Polish team, establish a fourth Camp as high as possible. If weather remains adequate, Saturday will be the summit push day.

It appears that weather on the mountain was neither perfect nor terrible today. From C1, Simone and David communicated that, "(It’s) not too cold, no wind (but) cloudy."

Similarly, from C3, Tomek shared that the wind was strong this afternoon, which made the ascent difficult. However, the wind has receded significantly by the evening. The climbers are expecting clear skies and moderate winds from Friday till Sunday.

Gottler and Moro, for the last time this season, towards the summit of Nanga Parbat. Source

Update-1: 27-02-2014 1100hrs Pakistan Time

The morning’s update from Nanga Parbat is not very encouraging. Emilio Previtali reports that conditions are not good, or more specifically worse than expected. It has been snowing since last night, wind is strong and visibility is very poor. At BC, around 5 to 10 cm of snow fell, this night.

Considering their plan to reach C3 today, Simone Moro and David Gottler left C1 at 05:30am, this morning. But the strong wind and snowfall didn’t let them go higher. They retreated to C1. By 07:00am the conditions had improved slightly to let Simone/David begin their ascent. The duo is currently about to reach C2. They are fighting fresh snow and trail-breaking on the way.

Jacek Teler has also begun the ascent to C2, whereas Pawel Dunaj is waiting for conditions to improve. Pawel intends to reach C2-A or C3, depending upon conditions.

Last but not the least, Tomek Mackiewicz says that visibility at C3 is zero. Wind is very strong. Tomek wants to go up and possibly set up C4, but for now he can only wait.

Update-2: 27-02-2014 1400hrs Pakistan Time

Emilio Previtali has updated the teams' progress. Simone Moro and David Gottler have reached C2. Pawel Dunaj couldn’t leave the camp because of bad weather. Jacke Teler is also on the way to C2. It has been very cold, extremely windy and snowing, so far. It appears that climbers have abandoned the thought of reaching C3, today.

Meanwhile, David Gottler will soon make an attempt to go up to C2-A. C2 is not adequately equipped with sleeping bags and mattresses to accommodate all of them. However, Pawel, Simone and Jacek will remain in C2, tonight.

In C3, Tomek Mackiewicz is stuck inside the tent. The wind is too strong and visibility is poor. The teams will be hoping for better conditions, tomorrow.

Update-2: 27-02-2014 1800hrs Pakistan Time
David has reached C2-A, few hours back.

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