Winter 2014 | The Summit Push on Nanga Parbat
After a week of hurricane winds, clouds and snow on Nanga Parbat, the weather is improving and the mountaineers are already on the mountain. Tomek Mackiewicz and Pawel Dunaj ascended to C1, today. Simone Moro, David Gottler and the Poles Jacek Teler and Michal Obrycki are also ready to climb. They will be going up, tomorrow.
The Schell route climbers are aiming for the summit. If everything goes as per plan and weather forecast proves to be accurate, they will be pushing for the summit on Monday or Tuesday, next week. “It will be a week of climbing, ascent and descent, and the unknowns are the part of the route on the Diamir side and our acclimatization. We'll see if we're up to it, good and lucky to get a bit higher up, maybe 1125m higher than the last time ....” Wrote Simone Moro
Meanwhile on Diamir side, Daniele Nardi battles against bad weather and the storm of sentiments of being at the massacre site of 11 climbers.
Rupal Face
During previous weather window, Simone and David slept for one night in C3 above 6700m and were able to reach around 7000m before returning to BC. Polish climbers spent a couple of nights in C-2A at around 6200m. Both teams are now going for the summit, without any further acclimatization rotations.
The key strength of Polish climbers is endurance and steadiness. Last year, Tomek spent three weeks above 6000m. He spent several days in snow cave at 6800m, alone, due to fierce wind before managing to reach 74000m. Weather on Nanga Parbat wasn’t perfect this morning either, but Tomek and Pawel Dunaj started the climb. They reached C1 in the evening. As per Emilio Previtali, Poles radioed that route was okay; while it has been snowing at C1.
The Polish team will try to establish C3 before the arrival Simone and David, so that they all can collectively launch the summit push at the start of next week.
The North Face Team is strong and fast. Emilio describes the enthusiasm of all the climbers for the summit push, but he notices that Simone Moro is calm and patient. “I think at this point climbing this mountain is above all a question of mental strength, the reading of the situation, the capacity to seize the opportunity, the right weather and coordination with all other factors which are certainly not a few, to be assessed. I think Simone knows well how to make his calculations. Besides, climbing three 8000ers in winter is not just a coincidence.”
Simone and David Gottler will rise from BC, tomorrow.
Daniele Nardi
Before the start of expedition, Italian climber Daniele Nardi said that he would reach the Base Camp late in the season, as he didn’t want to make it look like a competition. So, while the Rupal face climbers are going for the summit, Daniele’s acclimatization is still in early stages. He will be acclimatizing on 6608m Ganalo Peak before an alpine style attempt on Mummery ridge.
The Mummery Rib. Image showing Messner brothers 1970 descent route. The route has never been climbed upwards.
Noshaq
The Polish-Russian Noshaq expedition has been called off without success. Expedition leader Ola Dzik reported that they established C3 at 6000m and spent two nights there, before reaching an altitude of 6300m. The ice conditions above 6000m were very difficult. A forecast of strong wind in coming days forced the team to retreat to BC and start the return journey.
Joel Wischnewski's Website
A year ago, on February 6th, 2013 French solo climber Joel Wischnewski wrote on his website, “Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I’m going to try the S-E pillar. I’ve got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following.”
But he never returned. Joel went missing above 5000m on Rupal face and eventually his body was located above 6000m, this autumn. The family of the climber has re-established his website, publishing the extensive collection of images and videos from Nanga Parbat, captured during winter Nanga Parbat. The URL for website is: http://www.steepboard.fr/
Frequent updates appear in Tweet Box in sidebar of this weblog, on Twitter and at Facebook page.
The Schell route climbers are aiming for the summit. If everything goes as per plan and weather forecast proves to be accurate, they will be pushing for the summit on Monday or Tuesday, next week. “It will be a week of climbing, ascent and descent, and the unknowns are the part of the route on the Diamir side and our acclimatization. We'll see if we're up to it, good and lucky to get a bit higher up, maybe 1125m higher than the last time ....” Wrote Simone Moro
Meanwhile on Diamir side, Daniele Nardi battles against bad weather and the storm of sentiments of being at the massacre site of 11 climbers.
 |
| Simone and David above C3. Source |
Rupal Face
During previous weather window, Simone and David slept for one night in C3 above 6700m and were able to reach around 7000m before returning to BC. Polish climbers spent a couple of nights in C-2A at around 6200m. Both teams are now going for the summit, without any further acclimatization rotations.
The key strength of Polish climbers is endurance and steadiness. Last year, Tomek spent three weeks above 6000m. He spent several days in snow cave at 6800m, alone, due to fierce wind before managing to reach 74000m. Weather on Nanga Parbat wasn’t perfect this morning either, but Tomek and Pawel Dunaj started the climb. They reached C1 in the evening. As per Emilio Previtali, Poles radioed that route was okay; while it has been snowing at C1.
 |
| Tomek Mackiewicz; Source |
The Polish team will try to establish C3 before the arrival Simone and David, so that they all can collectively launch the summit push at the start of next week.
The North Face Team is strong and fast. Emilio describes the enthusiasm of all the climbers for the summit push, but he notices that Simone Moro is calm and patient. “I think at this point climbing this mountain is above all a question of mental strength, the reading of the situation, the capacity to seize the opportunity, the right weather and coordination with all other factors which are certainly not a few, to be assessed. I think Simone knows well how to make his calculations. Besides, climbing three 8000ers in winter is not just a coincidence.”
Simone and David Gottler will rise from BC, tomorrow.
 |
| Michal Obrycki and Pawel Dunaj of Polish Team; Source |
Daniele Nardi
Before the start of expedition, Italian climber Daniele Nardi said that he would reach the Base Camp late in the season, as he didn’t want to make it look like a competition. So, while the Rupal face climbers are going for the summit, Daniele’s acclimatization is still in early stages. He will be acclimatizing on 6608m Ganalo Peak before an alpine style attempt on Mummery ridge.
 |
| Daniele Nardi Acclimatizing on Ganalo Peak; Source |
Noshaq
The Polish-Russian Noshaq expedition has been called off without success. Expedition leader Ola Dzik reported that they established C3 at 6000m and spent two nights there, before reaching an altitude of 6300m. The ice conditions above 6000m were very difficult. A forecast of strong wind in coming days forced the team to retreat to BC and start the return journey.
Joel Wischnewski's Website
A year ago, on February 6th, 2013 French solo climber Joel Wischnewski wrote on his website, “Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I’m going to try the S-E pillar. I’ve got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following.”
But he never returned. Joel went missing above 5000m on Rupal face and eventually his body was located above 6000m, this autumn. The family of the climber has re-established his website, publishing the extensive collection of images and videos from Nanga Parbat, captured during winter Nanga Parbat. The URL for website is: http://www.steepboard.fr/
Frequent updates appear in Tweet Box in sidebar of this weblog, on Twitter and at Facebook page.
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