Winter 2014 | Waiting Game and Preparations for the Window
“Cloudy. Another day of bad weather. We will do our daily training around here. Then waiting.” Emilio Previtali wrote this morning. The waiting-game has been going on since last week when cold and bad weather thwarted the second summit push. Apparently, the wait will continue for several days as clouds surround Nanga Parbat, now.
On western side of the mountain, Daniele Nardi has completed the acclimatization and is getting ready for Mummery Rib climb.
Daniele Nardi
After reaching 5900m on Ganalo Peak (6608m), the Italian solo climber is working for Mummery Rib attempt. Daniele has successfully negotiated route through the glacier and will now try to deposit necessary gear in C1.
A couple of days ago, the clear weather encouraged Daniele to go up, trail-breaking till 4800m. “I was very light, alone, with the concern of crevasses and the track to do. But step by step I got where you normally place the Nanga Parbat C1 at about 4800 meters.”
He was back at BC before the night. In next attempt, Daniele will set up a tent at 4800m and shift the gear to avoid repeated trips through the glacier. The conditions on Mummery ridge doesn't appear to be very promising at the moment, but "we will see", writes the climber.
Mummery Rib is the direct line to the summit on Diamir side and is still unclimbed. Last winter, Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol reached 6400m on this route.
Waiting in Latabo
It has been 68 days since the arrival of Polish team at Base Camp and 50 days since German-Italians reached. But both of them are equally motivated to stay there till March 21st, the last day of winter season, if required.
The teams are currently undergoing, psychologically, the toughest phase of expedition - waiting at BC, without a definite summit window in sight. Cloudy weather and snow are predicted on Nanga Parbat till forthcoming weekend, and after that there will be a couple of days of hurricane wind at summit.
The Routines
Being in positive frame both physically and mentally when summit window arrives, will be the key factors for success on Nanga Parbat. Emilio explains the usual routine of his team at Base Camp.
“After breakfast everyone operates according to his rhythm; I write and work in the morning and usually go out to train in the early afternoon. I like to return to the camp when the sun is about to set. I like to still be around when there is a yellow light that surrounds everything. David usually goes out in the morning and back before noon. Simone, it depends. We already know that there are still several days to wait, we do not know exactly how many, maybe up to 26th.”
Probably, the Poles - Tomek Mackiewicz, Pawel Dunaj and Jacek Teler - follow a similar routine. Meanwhile, Michal Obrycki is on the way back to Islamabad to settle some issues related to his visa/passport.
For frequent updates check Tweet Box in sidebar of this weblog or follow on Twitter and Facebook.
On western side of the mountain, Daniele Nardi has completed the acclimatization and is getting ready for Mummery Rib climb.
 |
| (Description Edited) File photo of Simone Moro on Shishapangma; Source: The North Face team |
Daniele Nardi
After reaching 5900m on Ganalo Peak (6608m), the Italian solo climber is working for Mummery Rib attempt. Daniele has successfully negotiated route through the glacier and will now try to deposit necessary gear in C1.
A couple of days ago, the clear weather encouraged Daniele to go up, trail-breaking till 4800m. “I was very light, alone, with the concern of crevasses and the track to do. But step by step I got where you normally place the Nanga Parbat C1 at about 4800 meters.”
He was back at BC before the night. In next attempt, Daniele will set up a tent at 4800m and shift the gear to avoid repeated trips through the glacier. The conditions on Mummery ridge doesn't appear to be very promising at the moment, but "we will see", writes the climber.
Mummery Rib is the direct line to the summit on Diamir side and is still unclimbed. Last winter, Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol reached 6400m on this route.
 |
| Daniele going to C1; Source |
Waiting in Latabo
It has been 68 days since the arrival of Polish team at Base Camp and 50 days since German-Italians reached. But both of them are equally motivated to stay there till March 21st, the last day of winter season, if required.
The teams are currently undergoing, psychologically, the toughest phase of expedition - waiting at BC, without a definite summit window in sight. Cloudy weather and snow are predicted on Nanga Parbat till forthcoming weekend, and after that there will be a couple of days of hurricane wind at summit.
 |
| Vertical David! Photo Credit: The North Face team |
The Routines
Being in positive frame both physically and mentally when summit window arrives, will be the key factors for success on Nanga Parbat. Emilio explains the usual routine of his team at Base Camp.
“After breakfast everyone operates according to his rhythm; I write and work in the morning and usually go out to train in the early afternoon. I like to return to the camp when the sun is about to set. I like to still be around when there is a yellow light that surrounds everything. David usually goes out in the morning and back before noon. Simone, it depends. We already know that there are still several days to wait, we do not know exactly how many, maybe up to 26th.”
 |
| Simone and Tomek (successfully) repairing the drone. |
Probably, the Poles - Tomek Mackiewicz, Pawel Dunaj and Jacek Teler - follow a similar routine. Meanwhile, Michal Obrycki is on the way back to Islamabad to settle some issues related to his visa/passport.
For frequent updates check Tweet Box in sidebar of this weblog or follow on Twitter and Facebook.
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