Summer 2014 | Day 2 of Broad Peak Summits, Success on GII - Update # 8
(Note: Updates will be added to this post, as further information arrives from the mountain.)
First summits of the season were witnessed on Broad Peak, yesterday. As reported, Romanian Alex Gavan summited along with some other mountaineers. However, the challenges of Broad Peak Middle exhausted the Polish climbers, and forced them to retreat 100m below the sub peak.
Climbers expected to go for summit today included Oscar Cadiach’s Spanish team, Lina Quesada’s International team, Group B of Polish climbers aiming Broad Peak main summit, Taiwanese expedition, Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki, Mexican couple and everyone else who didn’t participate in yesterday’s summit push.
Spanish climber Oscar Cadiach, if successful on Broad Peak, will be completing the 14x8000ers venture today. He will become the 33rd person to do so.
Gasherbrum II Summit
Turkish climber Tunc Findik bagged his 11th 8000er this morning. Leading an international expedition, he reached the GII summit at around 10AM local time.
Broad Peak: First Summit of Day-2
As per home team of Jesus Morales (from Oscar Cadiach’s Team), the Spanish climber reached the summit at around 06:15AM local time this morning. He was accompanied by a Sherpa whose name is not known at the moment. It’s reported that he could see another group of climbers approaching the summit.
Meanwhile, it’s also learned that Carlos Garranzo (of Lina’s team) and Javier Santos have abandoned the summit attempt and are descending.
Update 01 (24-July-2014 / 1150hrs Pakistan Time)
Firstly an update to yesterday’s summits; Alex Gavan’s home team has confirmed that two Bulgarian climbers Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov summited Broad Peak at around 02:00PM (yesterday). They all spent night in C3 and are descending to BC, now.
Several climbers have reportedly reached the top, today. Akbar Syed of Lela Peak Expeditions, communicated from Base Camp that two Pakistani HAPs Little Hussain and Muhammad Taqi summited along with three Taiwanese. As per him Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López, the Mexican couple, also reached the top. Finally, there are also reports of Polish climbers’ success.
We shall update the details as first-hand confirmations arrive.
Update 02 (24-July-2014 / 1233hrs Pakistan Time)
As per message from Jerzy Natkański, leader of Polish team, group B climbers Piotr Tomala, Agnieszka Bielecka and Marek Chmielarski successfully reached Broad Peak’s main summit at 0920AM local time.
Also, Seven Summit Treks team (Chhang Dawa Sherpa from BC) is reporting that Korean, Spanish and Nepalese climbers of their expedition reached the top, today.
Update 03 (24-July-2014 / 1430hrs Pakistan Time)
No summit for Oscar Cadiach; as per Spanish climbers' home team, Oscar was forced to retreat from 8025m.
Update 04 (24-July-2014 / 1530hrs Pakistan Time)
Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki confirmed on Twitter that he made it to Broad Peak summit, today.
Update 05 (24-July-2014 / 2000hrs Pakistan Time)
Updates are arriving about summits on Broad Peak. Firstly, four members of Summit Climb team reached the main summit, yesterday. It’s reported that conditions were tough; the traverse from Foresummit to Main peak took several hours. Climbers who reached the summit: Felix Alexander Berg, Richard Michael Stihler, Christian Leitinger and Torsten Neumayr. They are all back to BC, now.
Also, there are reports that Pakistani trio, Karim Hayat, Safdar Karim and Naseer Ud-Din also reached the summit. Finally, there is still no news about Hungarian duo, Szilárd Suhajda and Csaba Varga.
Update 06 (24-July-2014 / 2215hrs Pakistan Time)
As per media reports from Hungary, Szilárd Suhajda and Csaba Varga successfully summited Broad Peak on July 23rd and have descended to BC. It's reported that ascent was difficult and exhausting. The two climbers reached the top in the afternoon.
Update 07 (25-July-2014 / 2350hrs Pakistan Time)
A Taiwanese climber who summited Broad Peak yesterday, fell ill on descent, reports the EvK2CNR team. Agostino Da Polenza from K2 BC told montagna.tv: "In our tent, while awake waiting for news from K2, Rozi Ali, head of Concordia Rescue team, is in contact with the base camp of Broad Peak to coordinate the recovery of alpinist hit by altitude sickness and is in critical condition."
First summits of the season were witnessed on Broad Peak, yesterday. As reported, Romanian Alex Gavan summited along with some other mountaineers. However, the challenges of Broad Peak Middle exhausted the Polish climbers, and forced them to retreat 100m below the sub peak.
Climbers expected to go for summit today included Oscar Cadiach’s Spanish team, Lina Quesada’s International team, Group B of Polish climbers aiming Broad Peak main summit, Taiwanese expedition, Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki, Mexican couple and everyone else who didn’t participate in yesterday’s summit push.
Spanish climber Oscar Cadiach, if successful on Broad Peak, will be completing the 14x8000ers venture today. He will become the 33rd person to do so.
 |
| Broad Peak true Summit as seen from Foresummit; Photo: Jerzy Natkański |
Gasherbrum II Summit
Turkish climber Tunc Findik bagged his 11th 8000er this morning. Leading an international expedition, he reached the GII summit at around 10AM local time.
Broad Peak: First Summit of Day-2
As per home team of Jesus Morales (from Oscar Cadiach’s Team), the Spanish climber reached the summit at around 06:15AM local time this morning. He was accompanied by a Sherpa whose name is not known at the moment. It’s reported that he could see another group of climbers approaching the summit.
Meanwhile, it’s also learned that Carlos Garranzo (of Lina’s team) and Javier Santos have abandoned the summit attempt and are descending.
Update 01 (24-July-2014 / 1150hrs Pakistan Time)
Firstly an update to yesterday’s summits; Alex Gavan’s home team has confirmed that two Bulgarian climbers Boyan Petrov and Ivan Tomov summited Broad Peak at around 02:00PM (yesterday). They all spent night in C3 and are descending to BC, now.
Several climbers have reportedly reached the top, today. Akbar Syed of Lela Peak Expeditions, communicated from Base Camp that two Pakistani HAPs Little Hussain and Muhammad Taqi summited along with three Taiwanese. As per him Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López, the Mexican couple, also reached the top. Finally, there are also reports of Polish climbers’ success.
We shall update the details as first-hand confirmations arrive.
Update 02 (24-July-2014 / 1233hrs Pakistan Time)
As per message from Jerzy Natkański, leader of Polish team, group B climbers Piotr Tomala, Agnieszka Bielecka and Marek Chmielarski successfully reached Broad Peak’s main summit at 0920AM local time.
Also, Seven Summit Treks team (Chhang Dawa Sherpa from BC) is reporting that Korean, Spanish and Nepalese climbers of their expedition reached the top, today.
Update 03 (24-July-2014 / 1430hrs Pakistan Time)
No summit for Oscar Cadiach; as per Spanish climbers' home team, Oscar was forced to retreat from 8025m.
Update 04 (24-July-2014 / 1530hrs Pakistan Time)
Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki confirmed on Twitter that he made it to Broad Peak summit, today.
Update 05 (24-July-2014 / 2000hrs Pakistan Time)
Updates are arriving about summits on Broad Peak. Firstly, four members of Summit Climb team reached the main summit, yesterday. It’s reported that conditions were tough; the traverse from Foresummit to Main peak took several hours. Climbers who reached the summit: Felix Alexander Berg, Richard Michael Stihler, Christian Leitinger and Torsten Neumayr. They are all back to BC, now.
Also, there are reports that Pakistani trio, Karim Hayat, Safdar Karim and Naseer Ud-Din also reached the summit. Finally, there is still no news about Hungarian duo, Szilárd Suhajda and Csaba Varga.
Update 06 (24-July-2014 / 2215hrs Pakistan Time)
As per media reports from Hungary, Szilárd Suhajda and Csaba Varga successfully summited Broad Peak on July 23rd and have descended to BC. It's reported that ascent was difficult and exhausting. The two climbers reached the top in the afternoon.
Update 07 (25-July-2014 / 2350hrs Pakistan Time)
A Taiwanese climber who summited Broad Peak yesterday, fell ill on descent, reports the EvK2CNR team. Agostino Da Polenza from K2 BC told montagna.tv: "In our tent, while awake waiting for news from K2, Rozi Ali, head of Concordia Rescue team, is in contact with the base camp of Broad Peak to coordinate the recovery of alpinist hit by altitude sickness and is in critical condition."
It's reported that Taiwanese climber was given supplemental oxygen and emergency medication, but he was still unable to walk. However, fellow climbers helped him bring down to C2.
Tomorrow morning, Concordia Rescue Team will be sending a rescue party to bring the Taiwanese climber down to BC.
Also, it has been reported that Oriol Ribas Duro, Spanish climber from Oscar Cadiach's team has also summited on 24th.
Update 08 (26-July-2014 / 1350hrs Pakistan Time)
Czech climbers Marek Novotny and Libor Uher summited Broad Peak on July 25th at around 1430 hrs local time.
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Also, it has been reported that Oriol Ribas Duro, Spanish climber from Oscar Cadiach's team has also summited on 24th.
Update 08 (26-July-2014 / 1350hrs Pakistan Time)
Czech climbers Marek Novotny and Libor Uher summited Broad Peak on July 25th at around 1430 hrs local time.
You may follow frequent updates on Twitter and Facebook. Tweets also appear in sidebar of this weblog.
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