Autumn 2014 | Teams Roll On to Base Camps

Mountaineering teams are reaching the big mountains, as monsoon rains recede. Several expeditions have just established the Base Camps, and are about to kick off their climbs.


The Korean Lhotse Team reached South Face BC on September 3rd, amidst persistent monsoon showers. Having established Base Camp and conducted the Puja rituals, they now await weather improvement to start the climb.

The team consists of Sung Taek Hong (leader), Kim Tae Gon, Choi Jin Chul, Yim Jun Ho and Jeon Jae Min.


British Makalu SE ridge team was scheduled to reach Nepal, by now. However the team hasn’t shared any update recently.

Routes on Makalu; British team is attempting SE Ridge, this season. Source


A ten member Slovak “ski-mountaineering” team will be on Dhaulagiri, this season. Expedition leader Janko Matlák, and four members Vlado Švancár, Andrej Harendarčík, Peter Kostelanský and Jirko Švihálek, are currently in Kathmandu organizing the logistics for gear shipment to BC. Remaining members are expected to reach Nepal, today.


First Shishapangma teams have reached the mounatin. Suzanne Husser, leader of Kobler-Partner team, messaged from ABC yesterday (on 8th) that “Yesterday, the ABC was established. It was a very nice camp, location and views are excellent. Still all participants are healthy, fit and in good spirits. Generally, it has a lot of snow.” Two members of K&P team, Russian Sergey Baranov and German Billi Bierling, are currently on the way to ABC.

Double 8 Expedition members are also in Tibet, acclimatizing/training for their challenge to climb Shishapangma and Cho Oyu in seven days.

The 75 year old Spaniard, Carlos Soria, is currently in Kathmandu. He will be pursuing his 12th eight-thousander, Shishapangma, this autumn.

Double 8 team acclimatizing in Tibet; Source


“Manaslu is very quiet this fall, in regards to the amount of teams present, compared to the past few seasons. Many of the old time operators on Manaslu are happy that we have the peak back to normal as the majority of the usual Cho Oyu teams are heading to Tibet this fall.” Wrote Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies from Manaslu BC, yesterday.

Altitude Junkies and HimEx teams are cooperating for rope fixing on the mountain. Route was fixed till C1 on September 6th, and climbers made the first rotation on the mountain. Yesterday, Six Sherpa (three from AJ and HimEx each) were hoping to conclude fixing task till C2. Good weather is reported from the region and climbers are heading up for another round of acclimatization.

While aforementioned teams flew to Sama Goan in helicopters, majority of climbers opt for lengthy, hot and humid trek from Arughat (accessible by road from Kathmandu) to Sama Gaon. Hence, they are still on the way to the mountain. It appears that around 7-8 teams are currently at Sama Gaon or trekking further to BC.

Manaslu BC Trek; Source

Cho Oyu

Like Manaslu, first Cho Oyu teams have also reached Advanced BC while several others are on the way to the mountain. SummitClimb Expedition leader Dan Mazur tweeted from Chinese BC yesterday that heavy rain and wind-storm had hit the BC. Other commercial teams like Alpine Ascents, IMG and Adventure Consultants have also reached the mountain. Rope fixing and higher camps establishment is expected to start soon.

Lastly, after success on Makalu in Spring and K2 in summer, Chris Jensen Burke is heading to Cho Oyu with Lakpa Sherpa. Chris has climbed seven eight-thousanders so far, six of them in past year and a half.

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