Spring 2015 | ‘Other’ Eight-Thousanders Round Up: Snow and More Snow!

Annapurna with early summits and Everest for obvious reasons have been focal points of spring 2015 so far. However, climbers are already on the way to climb “other” eight-thousanders as well. Generally speaking, teams have been facing snow and rainy conditions all across Nepal. They will be hoping for better conditions as they arrive at Base Camps in coming days.

After thwarting winter ascent target, excessive snow in Manaslu region defied Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger’s expedition in spring as well. They retreated from Base Camp in March, trained in Khumbu region and returned to the mountain on April 3rd. However, the conditions were worse than their first visit. They were unable to even find their equipment cached at C1.

“This was another sign that the time had come to give up. All our gear and the deposits for the high camps had disappeared, but luckily there is only equipment up there and not someone’s life,” Tamara Lunger wrote on April 8th. “Even Denis Urubko wrote us an email warning us to watch out, because the snow accumulation up high is unforgiving.”

While Simone and Tamara have returned to Italy, Romanian-Slovak duo Horia Colibasanu and Peter Hamor are on the way to Manaslu BC. “Hopefully, we'll be there soon,” Horia tweeted this afternoon. The two climbers reached Samagaon a week ago but snow and bad weather prevented them from reaching Base Camp.

Manaslu BC covered by several meters of snow; Source

The conditions at Dhaulagiri are not much different from other regions. Couple of days ago, a trekking team (consisting of one German, one Korean and three Sherpa) was stuck in snowstorm near Base Camp. They weren’t fairly equipped for the harsh conditions. Fortunately, though, the climbing team of Marco Confortola and Sherpa provided them shelter and medication. Whiteout conditions still persist at BC.

Marco Confortola’s team is currently only expedition on Dhaulagiri. Later in the season, they will be joined by Carlos Soria, who is currently awaiting a weather window for summit push on Annapurna.

Trying to retrieve gear from Manaslu BC; Source

Shishapangma is another quiet mountain this year. Just a couple of teams are on the way to Base Camp. Having left Kathmandu on April 12th, they are currently acclimatizing in Nyalam. Snowfall still continues in the region, as earlier reported by Everest North side climbers.

Cho Oyu
Amical Alpin team reached Chinese BC a couple of days ago. However, their progression to ABC was delayed by excessive snow.

“Yesterday I drove up to Middle camp together with the LO to check the snow situation. This morning we send a yakman and one of my climbing Sherpas up to Middle camp by motorbike. They should’ve climb up to ABC to check the route for yaks. Due to waist deep snow they didn't reach ABC! Now we have a problem - but somehow we will solve it..” Thomas Laemmle posted this evening. Meanwhile, the team has started acclimatizing on nearby hills.

Summit Climb Cho Oyu expedition, led by Dani Fuller, will be kicking off on April 20th.

Route towards Cho Oyu ABC; Source

“Periodic rain, sleet and snow most of the day along the way. Continuous rain and snow forecast for next week.” This message from Parvaneh Kazemi (sent on April 12th) describes the weather teams have been facing during trek to Makalu BC. The Iranian lady climber reached ABC yesterday.

Multiple teams are still trekking to Makalu and will be arriving at Base Camp by the end of this week or early next week.

Itinerary of Lhotse climbers is same as that of Everest teams. As described in previous post, unusual snowfall has hit EBC since the start of this week. “This morning, Thursday, it is still overcast with light snow. This is now three days of snow and cold temps and the forecast looks like more of the same for a few more days.” Alan Arnette reported from Base Camp.

None of the climbers (except rope-fixing group) has entered Icefall yet.

Snow covered Everest/Lhoste Base Camp; Source

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