Summer 2015 | Czech Gasherbrum I SW Face Team Waiting for Weather Window
Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek are still at Gasherbrum I Base Camp; fully acclimatized and ready for summit-bid as soon as weather permits. The teams says, they will be launching the alpine-style summit push in a “few days”. Mountain-Forecast predicts heavy snowfall in the region till Saturday, followed by a spell of clear and sunny days. This may well be the summit window for Czech duo.
“If everything goes according to our wishes, the wall should be in good condition and there should not be any unexpected change in weather for seven days; by when we would like to be back at BC.” Tomas Petrecek wrote from Base Camp yesterday. “As far as acclimatization is concerned, I think we are well prepared. Ice axes and crampons have been sharpened, and the mood in the team is excellent.”
Along with cameraman Tomáš Galáska, Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek are the only 8000m climbers in Karakoram, now. After reaching BC in third week of July, the climbers immediately set out for acclimatization on Gasherbrum II normal route. They spent two nights on the mountain and climbed to an altitude of 7000m, before retreating to BC on July 25th.
Marek and Tomas’ intended line of ascent - a direct route up the Southwest Face of GI - has been attempted twice by Marek together with late Zdenek Hruby (in 2009 and 2013), reaching 7600m and 6800m, respectively.
Existing routes on GI SW face include Jerzy Kukuczka/Wojciech Kurtyka’s 1983 line and Valery Babanov/Victor Afanasiev 2008 route. In 1977, Yugoslavians climbed SW face in lower portion before following SW ridge to summit.
“If everything goes according to our wishes, the wall should be in good condition and there should not be any unexpected change in weather for seven days; by when we would like to be back at BC.” Tomas Petrecek wrote from Base Camp yesterday. “As far as acclimatization is concerned, I think we are well prepared. Ice axes and crampons have been sharpened, and the mood in the team is excellent.”
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| Marek and Tomas during trek to GI Base Camp; Source |
Along with cameraman Tomáš Galáska, Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek are the only 8000m climbers in Karakoram, now. After reaching BC in third week of July, the climbers immediately set out for acclimatization on Gasherbrum II normal route. They spent two nights on the mountain and climbed to an altitude of 7000m, before retreating to BC on July 25th.
Marek and Tomas’ intended line of ascent - a direct route up the Southwest Face of GI - has been attempted twice by Marek together with late Zdenek Hruby (in 2009 and 2013), reaching 7600m and 6800m, respectively.
Existing routes on GI SW face include Jerzy Kukuczka/Wojciech Kurtyka’s 1983 line and Valery Babanov/Victor Afanasiev 2008 route. In 1977, Yugoslavians climbed SW face in lower portion before following SW ridge to summit.
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| The intended line of ascent. Source |
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