Winter 2016 | Daniele Departs, Tomek Returns and Strong Summit Wind on Nanga Parbat
Winter Nanga Parbat action is restricted to Base Camp, as strong wind deny any climbing activity. Off the mountain, there have been few developments over the past week. A) Tomek Mackiewicz is mulling over a return to the mountain. B) Daniele Nardi has abandoned his expedition. C) The waiting continues at Diamir BC with no foreseeable summit window.
Tomek’s Return
Back from 7500m on Messner-Messner-Eisendle-Tomaseth route, Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol abandoned the Base Camp in last week of January. While Elisabeth flew back to France and resumed her regular job, Tomek remained in Chilas. He was expected to start the return journey in first week of February. However, an ongoing strike by Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) employees means, the Polish climber is stuck in Pakistan for some time.
So, instead of driving back to Islamabad, Tomek planned a return to Nanga Parbat. His climbing permit is valid till February 22nd. Right now, he is sorting out money matters and security clearance to start the BC trek, again.
Daniele Nardi Departs
Amidst consistent bad weather and ongoing disagreement with fellow climbers, Daniele Nardi has called off his expedition. He is on the way to Islamabad now.
"After repeated failure of conditions initially agreed with the team, I decided to end the expedition to Nanga Parbat," wrote the Italian climber. "I was hoping for good weather window between February 5th-7th and thought of getting up to finish the phase of acclimatization - sleeping at Camp 3 and going a little higher. Unfortunately, window that lays ahead, instead of opening, is more closed. I promised myself not to get to the end of expedition, devastated like last year after three months of trying."
Four at Diamir BC
Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro remain in BC. The four climbers have joined hands to climb Kinshofer route when weather improves. They would ideally want to make another acclimatization rotation to C3 or above before summit push.
“These are fairly nice days here in Base Camp (some sunnier than others, as is the temperature), but every day we hear and frustratingly observe that the wind blows very hard up there, aborting any attempt above C1 (4.800m),” wrote Igone Mariezkurrena from Base Camp. For now, the climbers can only take turns to open route till glacier and discuss weather forecast.
No Update from Rupal Side
Nanga Dream team is already back in Poland. American climbers Cleo Weidlich, and Nepalese Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Temba Bhote and Dawa Sherpa are the only climbers in Rupal BC. No updates are available about progress of the team.
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| Strong wind sweeps Nanga Parbat summit under a starry night; Source |
Tomek’s Return
Back from 7500m on Messner-Messner-Eisendle-Tomaseth route, Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol abandoned the Base Camp in last week of January. While Elisabeth flew back to France and resumed her regular job, Tomek remained in Chilas. He was expected to start the return journey in first week of February. However, an ongoing strike by Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) employees means, the Polish climber is stuck in Pakistan for some time.
So, instead of driving back to Islamabad, Tomek planned a return to Nanga Parbat. His climbing permit is valid till February 22nd. Right now, he is sorting out money matters and security clearance to start the BC trek, again.
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| Tomek Mackiewicz during previous attempt on Nanga Parbat. Source |
Daniele Nardi Departs
Amidst consistent bad weather and ongoing disagreement with fellow climbers, Daniele Nardi has called off his expedition. He is on the way to Islamabad now.
"After repeated failure of conditions initially agreed with the team, I decided to end the expedition to Nanga Parbat," wrote the Italian climber. "I was hoping for good weather window between February 5th-7th and thought of getting up to finish the phase of acclimatization - sleeping at Camp 3 and going a little higher. Unfortunately, window that lays ahead, instead of opening, is more closed. I promised myself not to get to the end of expedition, devastated like last year after three months of trying."
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| An avalanche coming down from Messner 1978 route, which almost reached C1 of Kinshofer route climbers; Source |
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| The wind from avalanche damaged C1 fixing, but tent remained safe. Source |
Four at Diamir BC
Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro remain in BC. The four climbers have joined hands to climb Kinshofer route when weather improves. They would ideally want to make another acclimatization rotation to C3 or above before summit push.
“These are fairly nice days here in Base Camp (some sunnier than others, as is the temperature), but every day we hear and frustratingly observe that the wind blows very hard up there, aborting any attempt above C1 (4.800m),” wrote Igone Mariezkurrena from Base Camp. For now, the climbers can only take turns to open route till glacier and discuss weather forecast.
 |
| Four climbers discussing weather forecast. Source |
No Update from Rupal Side
Nanga Dream team is already back in Poland. American climbers Cleo Weidlich, and Nepalese Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Temba Bhote and Dawa Sherpa are the only climbers in Rupal BC. No updates are available about progress of the team.
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