Winter 2016 | First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat!

The task pending since 1988 has been completed by Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara at around 15:40hrs local time, today. The first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was confirmed by Base Camp, who had been in radio contact with climbers. The ‘fantastic' fourth member of the team, Tamara Lunger, had to stop a little short of summit, unfortunately. Precise details of her exit are not known, yet.

The climbers are already coming down. They will spend the night in C4 and retreat to BC, tomorrow. Weather remains favorable.

Updated at 2100hrs Pakistan time:-Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are safely back in C4, confirms the BC team. "Extremely tired, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have already reached C4 (7.200m). Feel obviously happy and satisfyed, but admit that today's work was "very hard and long"; that the summit-trapeze is "steeper than expected" and terrain was "really icy" on the last couloir. On the other hand, it was just extreme fatigue and early-morning-pukes what made Lunger desist not very far away from summit. Tomorrow will begin to descend at 10:00am."

Ali, Alex, Simone and Tamara!

The Climb
Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro left Base Camp on February 22nd. After battling harsh wind and difficult climbing conditions, they reach C2 (6100m) at around 1700hrs. The marathon 2000 meters ascent consumed around 11 hrs.

The hurricane winds continued throughout the night and following day. They spent the time hydrating, resting and waiting for improvement in conditions. The windstorm finally receded at around 2AM on Feb 24th. The climbers were ready to grab the opportunity to resume the ascent. On 24th, they reached C3 (6700m).

On 25th, the four climbers set up C4 (7100m) at the edge of Bazhin Basin. The final summit push started at around 06AM, this morning.

Nanga Parbat Dimair Face

Methodological Ascent
Weather windows on Nanga Parbat in winter are never long enough. To utilize the current window, the team climbed lower portion of the mountain in bad weather. They were already in C2 when actual good conditions arrived. They utilized next three days to reach the top.

Winter Climbing Bullet Points

• First winter expedition to any 8000m peak dates back to 1974, when Poles – led by Andrzej Zawada – attempted Lhotse. The attempt ended at 8250m.
• Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki made first winter ascent of an 8000m peak in 1980. (Everest, 17-02-1980)
• Out of 14, thirteen eight-thousanders have been climbed in winter now.
• K2 is the only mountain still unclimbed in winter.
• Nine out of twelve first ascents have been accomplished by Polish teams.
• Simone Moro revived the winter climbing when he scaled Shishapangma in winter 2005.
• Marianne Chapuisat is the only other female who climbed an 8000er in winter. (Cho Oyu in 1993; not a first ascent)
• Nanga Parbat was first attempted in winter 1988/89.
• Nanga Parbat is the mountain with most winter attempts – 31!
• Tomek Mackiewicz has attempted Nanga Parbat six times in winter.
• Joel Wischnewski was the sole victim of Nanga Parbat winter. (Died during winter 2013 attempt)
• Simone Moro has made first winter ascent of four 8000m peaks.
• Ali Sadpara is first Pakistani to achieve first winter ascent of an 8000m peak.
• Alex Txikon is first Spaniard to achieve first winter ascent of an 8000m peak.
• Nanga Parbat climbing route statsas reviewed during current climbing season can be viewed here.
• History of winter climbing Nanga Parbat.
• What makes the winter climbing so different, read details: The Bitter Cold and Wind, History, The Calendar Winter and More