Spring 2016: A Quick Round Up of Progress on 8000m Peaks

Everest Southside
After successful first weather window from May 11th-16th during which around 88 climbers reached the top, a second round of Everest ascents is currently underway. More than 100 climbers reached the top this morning (May 19th), as per Nepalese Department of Tourism official at EBC. Almost all remaining teams are set for summit-push in next couple of days.

Everest Northside
CTMA guides have been seen approaching the summit of Everest from Tibetan side, a while ago. The 9 member rope-fixing team is closely followed by some commercial climbers. Several other teams are also on the mountain, set for summit-push tomorrow and day after.

Apparently, first summits of the season on Lhotse are still awaited.  “Weather is good but the ropes are not yet fixed, so team is standing by in camp 2,” Summit Climb expedition leader Daniel Mazur wrote this morning.

Meanwhile, a member of rope-fixing team identified as Ang Furba Sherpa, suffered a fatal fall on Lhotse Face today. He, along with 6 other Sherpa, was working on the route towards Lhotse summit. His body has been located at the bottom of face.

It hasn’t been a particularly smooth year on Makalu. During first summit window, several strong climbers like Ali Sadpara, who is guiding Cleo Weidlich on mountain, and Boyan Petrov, summit-ahead-of-everyone-else specialist, were turned down 150m below the top, on May 11th. Following day, however Iranian lady Parvaneh Kazemi and a Sherpa, and Italian couple Nives Meroi and Romano Benet made it to the summit.

Several climbers went up to C2 (6600m), aiming for summit-bid on May 20th. However, bad weather continued and they had to retreat to BC. As of now, they are all waiting for next weather window.

Cho Oyu
Climbers reported tough conditions on Cho Oyu, this season. Nonetheless, the mountain witnessed more than a dozen ascents – including four climbers, David Roeske, Robin Trygg, Nikolaus Gruber and Chhiring Sherpa, on May 7th, by Indian team on 14th and Summit Climb expedition on 15th.

First summit-bid on Dhaulagiri yielded no success as around 20 climbers reached a maximum altitude of 7900m. Several climbers including Annapurna summiteers, meanwhile, decided to end their expeditions.

In second attempt, the climbers wanted to launch final bid from C3 on May 18th. However, strong wind halted them. British team decided to retreat, whereas others including Alberto Zerain, Mariano Galvan and Indian team opted to wait in C3. Alberto Zerain and Indian climber Prasad Joshi checked in from the top, this morning. Details about other ascents are awaited, as of now.

Peter Hamor and Horia Colibasanu have launched their alpine style push on Manaslu North Ridge. Starting from Samdo Village (3875 m), they bivouacked at 4700m on May 17th and reached the base of wall (4900m) yesterday.

Shisha Pangma 
David Gottler and Ueli Steck await good weather to launch new route summit push. Meanwhile, they made a quick ascension to 7800m for acclimatization last week.
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