"It will be first winter in recent years that I would not be going on an eight thousander expedition; I would wish success to all my colleagues."These are the words of Simone Moro, who we interviewed a few days ago in Milan during The North Face Speaker Series event. Moro has been a consistent (plus record-breaking) winter climber and has already bagged three first-winter-ascents. Prior to Italian Simone Moro's arrival in winter-first game, all seven 8000ers were summitted by Poles. Polish team made first-winter ascent of Gasherbrum-I last winter. As of now, only Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat and K2 are never summitted in winter. List of 2012-2013 winter teams can be found here.
Here is winter curriculum vitae of Simone Moro.
2004: Missed first winter ascent of Shishapangma by mere 300m.
2005: SUMMITED Shishapangma in winter. It was a winter first-ascent since Krzysztof Wielicki's summit of Lhotse in 1988.
2007: A winter full with storm and blisters, Moro couldn't reach atop Broad Peak
2008: Another year on Broad Peak but unfortunate missed the summit by a mere 200m.
2009: Concluded the winter chapter of Nepalese Himalayan first-ascents. SUMMITED Makalu with Denis Urubko.
2011: Makes history with first winter ascent in Pakistan. SUMMITED Gasherbrum II.
2012: Attempted first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat but couldn't go very high.
Moro would surely be missed this winter.
Simone Moro's Page: http://www.simonemoro.com/en
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