Summer 2013 | Teams Reaching BCs

Climbers who arrived in Pakistan a week ago are now reaching respective base camps. Apart from adjusting in thin air, they have to get used to the Pakistani food as well. Majority of them reported stomach problems but fortunately nothing alarming. Basecamps on both Diamir and Rupal sides of Nanga Parbat are active now, whereas Karakoram teams are still on the move.

Nanga Parbat

Rupal Side
Romanian team aiming to climb Schell route on Rupal side has reached the BC (3800m). The team consists of Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok, Bruno Adamcsek and Aurel Salasan. Currently, they are the only team on this side of Nanga Parbat. Team has been having digestive problems since their arrival in Pakistan but everyone is better now. Today they shifted 60kg of gear to Advance BC (4500m). Other Romanian team of Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean had to cancel this year's Nanga Parbat expedition due to financial reasons.

Nanga Parbat Rupal Face; Image: SummitPost

Diamir Side
Pakistani group led by Karim Hayyat was only team working on Kinshofer route so far but with the arrival of International Expedition, work can be divided between different climbers. Couple of days, Pakistanis went above C1 and shifted 500m of rope to a temporary camp site, 300m below planned C2. Today, International Expedition members were hoping to climb to C1 but bad weather forced everyone back to BC. Depending upon conditions, teams might go up tomorrow. Snowy and windy conditions are expected for a few days.

Three members Polish group has also reached Diamir BC safely (except stomach problem like everyone else).

Turkish climber Tunc Findik reached Islamabad on June 08th. As per recent report, he will be climbing with the Chinese group. They are still in Islamabad completing the official procedures and finalizing preparations before heading to Chilas.

Polish 3 members team in Islamabad; Image Source


Apart from Japanese team who is on the way to K2 basecamp and an international expedition whose members would be arriving in Pakistan by the end of this week, another team has acquired permits to climb both Broad Peak and K2. Confirmed members of this expedition are New Zealander Martin Schmidt, his 25 years old son Denali Schmidt, Australian Chris Warner and two Greek climbers Alexander Aravides and Nicholas Mangitsis. They would first attempt Broad Peak and then K2 via Abruzzi Spur. The international expedition would be on Cesen Route without bottled oxygen and porters.

Two Broad Peak expeditions with around 24 climbers are currently trekking on Baltoro glacier. They are hoping to reach BC tomorrow (June 12th).

German GI & GII Expedition led by Thomas Lammle left Besham, an intermediate town on KKH, yesterday and were hoping to reach Skardu today. Apart from teams mentioned in earlier reports, Spaniard Patxi Goni and Oscar Cadiach would teamup to climb Hidden Peak (GI) this summer.

Climbing Broad Peak; Illustration

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