Summer 2013 | Summit Push Aborted on K2, Gasherbrums Update

The Sherpas couldn't reach C3 due to snow depths of 7 feet and were 20 meters from being hit by an avalanche. With an earlier large avalanche spotted hitting areas of Camp 4, snow conditions (are simply too unstable to attempt summit now. All teams thus returning to Base Camp to reappraise.” Adrian Hayes called his support team, on Thursday evening.

After acclimatization and rest in bad weather days, majority of K2 climbers left BC on Wednesday (July 24th), hoping to be at top on July 28th. On Wednesday, climbers ascended to C1 (6100m) while Sherpas went directly to C2 (6700m). On Thursday, teams climbed to C2 (6700m) but Sherpas couldn’t reach C3 (7200m) because of adverse conditions on the mountain.

K2 from Broad Peak BC; Source

This year a Japanese team reached K2 BC early in the season. Six climbers of the team were part of current summit push.

Marty Schmidt and his son Denali summited Broad Peak, earlier this season. They’re climbing with Australian Chris Mellor Warner and Greek Alexandros Aravidis and Nikolaos Mangitsis.

British/Canadian Team includes Adrian Hayes and Al Hancock with four Sherpas.

Swiss Mike Horn and Fred Roux went to Broad Peak last week, to assist in rescue operation for Iranian climbers. They, along with their third partner Kobi Reichen, were also attempting to reach summit.

Alex Txikon, Felix Criado and Mexican Benjamin Salazar intended to climb Cesen route, but the conditions forced them to shift to Abruzzi Ridge. Now on Abruzzi Ridge, they’re forced to retreat to BC. [Edit: considering the amount of snow, Alex Txikon and Felix Criado has terminated the expedition.]

Argentineans Matoco Erroz and Juan Pablo Milana are another small team trying to ascend K2.

First Mongolian female to summit Everest, Badamgarav Gangaamaa, also had plans to attempt Mountaineer’s Mountain, but it appears that she remained on Broad Peak. K2 climb will not be possible for her, this year.

Last year, more than two dozen climbers summited K2, but no one was able to reach the summit from Southside in 2009, 2010 and 2011. Success in 2011 came from Northside when four climbers - Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski , Vassiliy Pivtsov, and Maxut Zhumayev made it to the top. 2008 was the disastrous year when eleven climbers lost their lives high on the mountain.

Climbers at K2 Base Camp; Source

Gasherbrums Update

Along with ongoing search for three missing Spanish climbers on GI, summit pushes are underway on GII. International team of Arnold Coster, Grace McDonald, Mark Quinn and Jonathan Kedrowski reached C2, yesterday. They’re planning to ascend to C3, today and summit, tomorrow (July 27th). Belgian lady Sofie Lenaerts, who couldn’t reach the summit last week, is again going up. Her plan also includes paragliding descent from top.

Several climbers, who summited GII last week, are now ready to bag their second summit of the season. Kiwi Chris Jensen Burke, Lakpa Sherpa, Belgian Stef Maginelle and Guido Riemenschneider and Maltese Gregory Attard are hoping to reach GI summit early next week.

Four members Czech team was last to reach the BC, this year. Team’s plan for summit push is not known.

GI (left peak); Source

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