Summit(s) on Nanga Parbat | Romanian Expedition

"19.07.2013: Nanga Parbat peak (summit) was reached 8126m", tweeted the Romanian Nanga Parbat Expedition team.

Summer 2013 season started with more than 50 climbers intending to climb Nanga Parbat from Diamir and Rupal sides. Romanians were alone on Rupal side with intentions of reaching the top via Schell route, whereas majority of teams were attempting Kinshofer route on Diamir side. On the night of 22nd June, a group of terrorists stormed the Diamir BC, killing 11 climbers. As a result of this massacre, all climbers were evacuated from Diamir side and expeditions were suspended to the region. After a week of chaos, the Romanaians eventually got the permission to proceed with their climb on Rupal side.

The five members (Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok, Bruno Adamcsek and Aurel Salasan) Romanian Team arrived in Pakistan, in first week of June and were at BC by 11th June. At the time of Diamir BC incident, they were almost done with acclimatization and route fixing to Mazeno Pass. They reached 7200m on June 25th before descending to BC due to bad weather and rest prior to summit bid.


The first attempt to reach the summit was carried out in first week of July, but strong winds halted the team's progression at C4 (7200m). They had to come back to BC and wait for another summit window. Second summit attempt began on 12th July, when all five climbers moved to C1 (5100m), targeting summit between 17th & 19th July depending upon weather. The ascent continued with establishment of temporary camps above C4 (7200m). Unfortunately, Bruno Adamcsek suffered altitude sickness and had to turn back to lower camps.

Marius, Teo, Zsolt and Aurel put the last camp at 7500m on 18th July. From here, the summit bid was launched yesternight. As per reports from home-team, the climbers summited today. List of climbers reaching the top and current position of climbers is not available yet.

(Update: It has been confirmed that Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok, and Aurel Salasan all four reached the summit.)

Illustration by Sandy Allan (Mazeno Ridge Expedition 2012) depicting the climbing route above Mazeno Pass.

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