Summer 2013 | GII Summit Push Thwarted, Success on GI

Arnold Coster, Grace McDonald, Mark Quinn and Jon Kedrowski were hoping for late success on GII but the dangerous conditions on the mountain forced them to retreat. It’s reported that the team wasn’t able to anchor safety ropes, due to melting ice and snow. "Melting snow and ice means it's becoming too dangerous to climb" and they made the unanimous decision to turn back. They were the last team to leave the mountain, this year.

Czech Climbers on GI
The four members’ Czech team was divided into two groups. As reported earlier, Marek Novotny and Tomas Petrecek attempted GI via standard route, while Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hruby were waiting for weather to climb SW Wall via new route. Tomas’ home team shared Tomas and Marek successfully reached the summit on July 28th (via Japanese Couloir route). They are back to Base Camp, now.

At the moment, communication with the team is not clear due to problems in Satellite phone. The home-team wrote a while ago, [Machine Translated] “The voice is all but utterly cool! At this point, should go back down Marek Holecek, who made the first ascent (attempt). However, we have no new information.

The message about new route attempt is not clear, but everyone seems to be safe and in good health, at this moment.

GI, Source

Full Report of Kungyang Chhish East (7400m) First Ascent
First Ascent of Kunyang Chhish East (7400m) was reported a couple of weeks ago. Now, Hansjorg Auer has posted detailed expedition report on his blog. "Getting progressively slower we traversed towards the highest point and at 12:30pm we couldn´t believe it. We couldn´t climb higher, the summit. We had tears in our eyes as we embraced each other."

Read full report here.
Approaching Kunyang Chhish East (7400m) Summit; Source
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