Autumn 2013 | Himalayas Update

The inhospitable weather at Everest Base Camp thwarts the Italian Lhotse expedition. Despite spending a month at Base Camp, they couldn’t reach the C2. But it appears that ‘well-equipped’ Korean team is still waiting for a chance to go higher. Elsewhere, climbers have reached Lunag Ri Base Camp and are getting ready to attempt the first ascent of Lunag-I, Saipal team is trekking to Base Camp, whereas several climbers are on Ama Dablam, this autumn.

Italian climbers Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli arrived at Base Camp around the mid of September. They intended to climb the mountain without fixed ropes, supplemental oxygen and altitude porters’ support. They started the expedition by successfully negotiating Ice Fall in alpine style (without fixed ropes, ladders and Sherpa support) – which, they believe, was never done in past two decades.

However since then, it has been a story of continuous bad weather, excessive snow and strong winds. Owing to adverse weather and dangerous conditions on Lhotse Face, the team decided to return home, last week.

Italians Skiing from C1; Source

It appears that Korean team is still present at BC; although they do seem worried about snow conditions on the mountain and the decreasing temperatures.

Snow conditions at EBC; Source

Lunag Ri
From Lunag Base Camp, Chad Kellogg updates that they are ready to start the climb, later this week. Chad and David Gottlieb reached the BC, last week. After their arrival, a snowstorm struck the region depositing several feet of snow. They are expecting that excessive snow will melt off in next couple of days and they will be able to launch the ascent on October 25th. The climb is estimated to take four days.

Lunag BC before snowstorm; Source

The French team reached Kathmandu on October 13th (except one member who arrived a day later). They flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj on 15th and Nepalgunj to Simikot on 18th, as weather interrupted the flights for a couple of days. The team is currently trekking to BC.

Group photo of Saipal Team; Source

Ama Dablam
Being one of the popular climbing destinations, Ama Dablam has attracted several teams this season. Pakistani mountain guide Shaheen Baig has reached the BC along with his Italian climbing partner Elena. After success on Lhotse, Gasherbrums and Manaslu, Kiwi climber Chris Burke wants to conclude the year with Ama Dablam ascent. It’s her third attempt on the peak.

Majority of the Ama Dablam teams are climbing the normal route, SW ridge, except Russel Brice’s Himalayan Experience expedition, which will be attempting to summit via North Ridge. Russel Brice has already climbed this route in 1980. German climber Billi Bierling is also part of the team.

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