Winter 2014 | Daniele Nardi Returns to Nanga Parbat

"Unfortunately our story of the Nanga Parbat in winter on the Mummery Ridge ends here. The mountain decided. It closed its doors once again. I accept it. It was the most extraordinary human and alpinist experience I’ve ever made in my life" … "It's because it spared my life, it let me taste its violence and its honey, the Queen of the Mountains..the killer mountain." … "How much did I learn? A lot more than I can digest at the moment!"

Above excerpts from Daniele Nardi’s dispatch depict the feelings and sentiments of Italian climber after two unsuccessful pushes on Nanga Parbat’s Mummery rib, in winter 2012-13. It didn’t take him too long to share his plan of attempting Nanga Parbat in winter, again. But the terrorist attack on Diamir BC this summer was a major setback, and it was feared that this side of the mountain may remain closed for climbing activities.

In August Daniele wrote, "even if I miss the Nanga Parbat in winter, I have other interesting projects to be carried out. But whatever happens, whether I proceed with it in December and January next year or instead, am forced to give it up, my focus will always remain on the spur and the direct line to the summit of Nanga Parbat in winter."

Climbing Mummery Rib; Photo from 2013 Winter Expedition; Source

Recently, the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat was opened for mountaineering, again. German climber Ralf Dujmovits has already reached the Base Camp. Now, Daniele Nardi has also confirmed his return to Nanga Parbat.

Daniele Nardi’s Plan
French lady Elisabeth Revol was climbing partner of Daniele last year, but it appears that she will not be going to the mountain, this winter. Daniele’s schedule of climb includes departure from Italy on January 20th and climbing the mountain between January 29th and February 28th. He will be alone on Mummery Rib.

"There will be a cook and a helper at the BC but I will be completely alone on the mountain. It will be a struggle against myself, before with the mountain.


Other Expeditions Updates

Justice For All
The Polish Team is currently busy in gear shifting to higher camps and acclimatization. They reached C1-A at 5500m, couple of days ago before returning to BC.

Michal and Pawel at C1-A (5500); Source

Ralf Dujmovits
Ralf Dujmovits’ team is the first foreign expedition to reach Diamir Base Camp since the murder of 11 climbers there in June. After their arrival at BC, Dujmovits, Zaluski, porters and other members held a short ceremony in the memory of the slain mountaineers. They talked about the tragic incident, the deceased climbers and expressed the faith that tourism will return to this valley, soon. "It was a very moving ceremony", says Ralf.

After setting up BC, Ralf and Zaluski went up the glacier to evaluate snow conditions on the mountain. They reached an altitude of 4850m, just below C1 on Kinshofer route. As per initial assessment, it appears that there is a lot of blue ice on lower sections of Kinshofer route and it’s variant. Although, the duo will make another trip to check the conditions, as of now it appears that Ralf will probably be climbing the Reinhold Messner route of 1978.

Ceremony for slain mountaineers; Photo: Ralf Dujmovits; Source

The North Face Team
Simone Moro, David Gottler and Emilio Previtali were scheduled to fly to Pakistan this afternoon.


Justice for All” is an all Polish team of Marek Klonowski and Tomek Mackiewicz (duo’s fourth consecutive winter Nanga Parbat expedition), Jacek Teler (his second attempt) and Pawel Dunaj. Poles are the uncrowned kings of winter altitude climbing, and the team feels proud of it. 80% of expedition funds have come of crowd-funding. The team is climbing Schell Route on Rupal face. Last year, Tomek Mackiewicz reached 7400m on this route.

Born in 1961, Ralf Dujmovits has been part of 32 expeditions to 8000m peaks and has completed 14x8000ers in 2009. Being his favorite 8000m peak, Ralf always wanted to return to Nanga Parbat, and here he is. He spent several nights on Aconcagua summit as an unorthodox technique of acclimatization. Although Poland’s Darek Zaluski is also with him at Base Camp and may accompany him till 5000m, Ralf will be solo climbing the Killer Mountain from Diamir side.

The man behind the rebirth of successful winter climbing, Simone Moro, was first non-Polish to achieve first winter ascent of an 8000m peak (Shishapangma in 2005). Later, from success on Makalu in 2009 and GII in 2011, to failed Nanga Parbat attempt in 2012, Kazakh (now Russian) Denis Urubko has been the regular partner of Moro, but the former is reluctant to come to Nanga Parbat because of security reasons. However, Simone is joined by dynamic young man David Gottler - with 4 eight-thousanders and who was one of the few men who scaled Makalu last spring - and versatile adventurer Emilio Previtali. Although, Emilio’s primary job will be documenting, reporting and sharing the story of winter Nanga Parbat but “I know of no climber who goes on a mountain with no desire to go on top.” - says the Italian. The North Face team will also be on Rupal side to climb Schell route.


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