Winter 2014 | Bad Weather on Nanga Parbat

The good days are gone, as snow and fierce wind hold back the Schell route teams at Base Camp. The climbers are contented with the progress so far. Technically difficult and dangerous portion of the route (from C1 to C2) has been fixed, though they were unable to have a look at Diamir side section of the route. Daniele Nardi, the Italian climber who will make a solo attempt on Diamir face, has also started his journey towards Nanga Parbat.

The Route
Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz, who climbed the Schell route till 7400m last winter, says that the route is ‘another planet’ if compared with previous year. “Much more difficult (conditions)!” There is a lot of black ice, which will require more efforts, technically and mentally. Going up and coming down in icy areas will be slow and treacherous, as climbers will have to pay extra attention.

Route fixing till 5800m was led by Polish team as Simone Moro and David Gottler arrived late. However, now both teams share the progress up the mountain. In latest climb, Simone and David reached 6400m. Access to Mazeno Pass (at around 6800m) should not be a great difficulty, now. The teams are also hoping for adequate conditions on Diamir face.

David, somewhere above C1; Photo: Emilio Previtali

Weather Forecast
The 9 days long weather window from January 11th to 20th allowed the teams to acclimatize well and make significant progress on the route. But the conditions may not improve for at least 4-5 days, now. Mountain-Forecast suggests clear weather and milder winds from Jan 27th to 29th, before another spell of snow and hurricane gusts.

Team ‘Justice for All’
The Polish team reached 6100m on the mountain. Michal Obrycki, Pawel Dunaj and Tomek Mackiewicz returned to BC on Jan 18th. Tomek had spent several days above 6000m setting up C2. Jacek Teler was the last one to come down.

Tomek in Emilio's tent; Photo: Emilio Previtali

The North Face
Simone Moro and David Gottler made two trips up the mountain during previous weather window. In first attempt, they extended the route fixing from 5900m to 6000m on January 15th, before returning to Base Camp. On 17th, the duo went up again and reached 6400m on Jan 20th before bad weather halted their advancement.

Diamir Side
Daniele Nardi was schedule to leave for Pakistan on January 20th. As per plan, he will reach Base Camp on 28th. Daniele will be climbing Mummery Ridge route in alpine style. Last year, he (along with Elisabeth Revol and Ali Muhammad) acclimatized on Ganalo Peak (6608m), before reaching 6400m on Mummery Rib.

Simone & David's C2; Photo: Simone Moro

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