Winter 2014 | Poles Wait, Italians-German Depart

The weather window over the past weekend also didn’t prove to be good enough for a summit push. David Gottler and Tomek Mackiewicz went up from C4 (7000m) to 7200m and were able to view the route on Diamir side. Although, as per Tomek the route wasn’t in particularly bad condition, the strong wind and intense cold forced the duo to turn back. It was third attempt by The North Face and Polish Team to reach the summit, this season.

End of The North Face Expedition
Simone Moro, David Gottler and Emilio Previtali are expected to leave the Nanga Parbat BC, today. Due to multiple factors like unpromising weather forecast, the historical pattern of excessive snow in March and personal commitments of team members, the team decided not to wait further at Base Camp.

Baggage and Barrels of The North Face Team; Source

David Gottler expresses his feelings at the end of expedition, "Hard to put all my emotions into words after these days on Nanga Parbat; from being sad that we had to turn around, to being happy that I could take a look at the Diamir side, being above 7200m, being now safe back in BC and being home soon."

By the upcoming weekend, the three climbers should be in their home countries.

David Gottler (left) with Simone Moro after summit attempt-3; Source


Thanks to Emilio Previtali, the information coming out of Nanga Parbat has been precise, accurate, filled with right quantity of emotions and the reality, smooth, timely and without any uncertainties, throughout this season. Source

The Poles Wait
Their visa and climbing permissions were about to expire and food supplies were diminishing. It was being considered that Poles would also quit after third summit attempt. However, they have decided to hang on till March 21st. Tomek Mackiewicz says we will keep trying.

“Simone’s expedition is over. All the media in Poland are saying that our (Justice for all) expedition is over too. We never said anything like that! We are planning a few days of rest in BC and we are going up again. Our acclimatization is superb, we have plenty of power. The spirits are high, we had a vote today and everyone said, 'we are staying!'

We need to extend our visas and climbing permit now. We (Tomek and David) got to Mazeno ridge – 7200m – we could see the other side. Unfortunately there was a weather change - winds as strong as 70km/h. We have plenty of food, plenty of gear, ropes are fixed, Simone has left us plenty of goodies – parmesan cheeses, sausages, sleeping bags. We have a deposit and a tent in Camp 3, plenty of power, another deposit in Camp4. We will keep trying!”

Pawel Dunaj; Source

Tomek Mackiewicz; the leader of Polish Expedition; Source

Nardi Quits
Apart from the fear and anxiety at BC, the conditions on Diamir Face were also not fair enough for climbing this season. Ralf Dujmovits returned home without launching his solo attempt on Messner 1978 route due to serac fall risk and now Daniele Nardi also leaves because of dangerous conditions on Mummery Rib.

Daniele climbed above C1 on Kinshofer route a week ago, and narrowly escaped an ice avalanche. Keeping in view the weather pattern, the hazardous conditions and his climbing style (solo and alpine style), the Italian climber has decided to return home. Detailed report from Daniele can be read here (in Italian).

Avalanche coming down Diamir Face. Source

Daniele Nardi looking at Mummery Rib; Source

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