Spring 2014 | Everest North Teams Aiming for the Summit

After weeks of strong wind, May 23rd to 26th appears to be the good weather window on Everest. However, ropes from 8300m to summit still need to be fixed, which CTMA is planning to complete on 23rd and 24th. As of now, almost all climbers are aiming May 25th as summit day.

The Germans
Ralf Dujmovits climbed Everest in 1992, with supplemental oxygen (the only O2 in his list of 14x8000ers). This year, on his sixth attempt, Ralf intended to climb the Messner’s 1980 route (never repeated), solo and without bottled oxygen. However, due to difficult conditions, he has been forced to switch to normal route.

It [wind] is blowing for 14 days now. There is a rocky interruption in the upper section of the Norton Couloir, where it is the steepest. There is no snow, probably it is rather sandy,” the German mountaineer told Stefan Nestler from ABC.

Helga Soll and Jurgen Greher, who were on Shishapangma earlier, have reached Everest ABC. “We have just looked through the weather reports with Ralf and there could be with a bit of luck on May 25th,” the duo messaged on May 20th. Helga and Jurgen will also be attempting Everest without supplemental oxygen.

Ralf Dujmovits; Source

David Klein on Summit Push
Hungarian David Klein, who is also climbing without O2, is aiming to reach the top on May 25th. Currently at ABC, he hopes to start the summit attempt tomorrow. After spending nights in C1 (7000m), C2 (7800m) and C3(8300m), the summit-bid shall start on the night of 24th.

Peter and Horia
Horia Colibasanu’s home team reports that the two climbers are going to ABC today and, depending upon weather forecast, will resume the no O2 attempt soon. Previously, their first summit attempt was halted by strong wind at 7300m on May 15th.

Maltese Team and Rope Fixing Conflict
The Maltese team doesn’t seem satisfied with rope fixing process. On May 19th, Matthew Xerri wrote, “Fighting red tape and bureaucracy at advance base camp instead of altitude and gravity. Everest climbers are forced to miss the optimal weather to climb to the summit due to mess-up with route fixing. Our summit dreams might be ebbing away as the season comes to an end and the Chinese still refuse to open the route.

The Road to Everest North side BC; Source

Teams in ABC
It appears that the commercial teams have also progressed to ABC. Led by Scott Patch, the Summit Climb team messaged this morning, “Team resting at ABC. Met with CTMA; rope fix from C3 to summit (expected) on 23rd & 24th. We attempt for summit on 25th. Leaving for C1, tomorrow.

Based on recent reports from Kobler-Partner, 7 Summits Club and Adventure Peaks, it can be assumed that they are in ABC, by now.

Celebrating 'Victory Day' at Russian 7Summits-Club's BC; Source

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