Summer 2014 | Summit Push on Broad Peak

This morning we can see one Bulgarian climber through the telescope above C3 on his 3rd summit push, ploughing through the deep snow.” Chris Jensen Burke wrote from Broad Peak BC a while ago. The Bulgarian climber appears to be Boyan Petrov who has previously reached 7700m on June 30th.

The Bulgarian team consists of Boyan Petrov and Mladen Dankov, however Mladen wasn’t able to go above C2 during previous acclimatization rotation.

"Route for climbing is in good condition, but much of the fixed ropes are buried deep in the snow and going through difficult passages requires full concentration. There isn’t deep snow, but there are very strong icy areas," Petrov communicated from BC, last week. “[we] will go up directly to C2. Thence plan to continue to C3 and if time permits and feel good, will try to climb to the top.

Boyan Petrov; he summited Kangchenjunga in May. Photo: George Kozhuharov

Chris Burke herself is getting ready for summit push, though her acclimatization on Broad Peak didn’t go as per plan. On July 6th, Lakpa and she had to turn back just below C2 because of cold and to avoid frostbite. “[it] was to be our second and last rotation.”

So with time slipping away, Lakpa and I will go as high as we can and then descend – summit or no summit, ready to move across to K2,” she wrote today.

From Chris’ update, it appears that route fixing has been an issue on Broad Peak, particularly because of lack of contribution from some teams. The ropes haven't been fixed above C2, yet. The situation is expected to improve now, however, as large team with good Sherpa support has arrived.

http://polski-himalaizm-zimowy.wspinanie.pl/blog/files/2013/02/Broad-Peak-fot.A.Bielecki-20.07.2012.jpg
Broad Peak (Photo: Adam Bielecki/Source)

Romanian Alex Gavan and Australian Gavin Vickers left BC on the morning of July 7th, heading directly to C2. They wanted to establish C3, next day. Unfortunately, Gavin Vickers suffered an accident just below C2. “Rope snapped just below C2 and I took a tumble and badly sprained ankle; could have been much worse! Expedition over for me,” tweeted the Australian climber. He is now trekking back to Askole.

Meanwhile, several climbers have completed their acclimatization by reaching C3 (7100m). “Morning C3, with this complete acclimatization. Waiting for good weather”, messaged the Mexican couple Mauricio and Badia on July 9th. Polish Broad Peak Middle team was also in C3 on 9th, whereas there hasn’t been any communication from Pakistani team led by Karim Hayat.

The late arriving teams, two from Spain and the Hungarians, have also started the acclimation. Carlos Garranzo, of Spanish team led by Lina Quesada, told us on July 8th that they deposited some gear at 5000m and were hoping to reach C1 following day. Oscar Cadiach’s team reached C1 on July 10th. Hungarians Szilárd Suhajda and Csaba Varga reached Base Camp on July 6th and must be on the mountain, now.

Spanish climbers and trekkers at concordia with K2 and BP in background; Source

Japanese team led by Nobukazu Kuriki is still trekking to  BC. As per last update, they were at Paiju on July 9th.

Lastly, due to new regulations and permit issues, Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka will be climbing K2, now. “I have been experiencing problems with Broad Peak permit as my local operator does not have a team there this season. They would have had me joined with another company’s team which apparently is not quite as common and accepted procedure here as it is in, let’s say, Nepal

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5 comments:

  1. Whould you please ask them to have a look over the summit for any sign of iranian team ascended from new route last year, if it was possible for them while on summit. maybe a flag or anything else.

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    Replies
    1. HBF,
      Iranian flag was retrieved from summit during rescue operation. A couple of Pakistani porters traced the route all the way to true summit.

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    2. but no photo was taken. also, at first, they said there was not anything frim iranian team and after a short time, they talked about the flag.
      thanks.

      Delete
  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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