Winter 2015 | Waiting: The Usual Winter Nanga Parbat Business

Winter Nanga Parbat has started showing its colour: hurricane winds thrash the summit and heavy snow is reported from valleys below. Teams on both side of the mountain are still in Base Camps; resting, recovering and waiting for better conditions. Nanga Parbat is known to keep climbers waiting for weeks. Nevertheless, there was a prolonged good weather window a week ago as we witnessed an incredible summit push on Diamir side and significant progress on Schell route.

Elisabeth Revol has already reached France. Tomek Mackiewicz’s injuries are being treated in Gilgit. Daniele Nardi and Russian team await better weather conditions. Alex Txikon and Iranian climbers are about to reach Diamir side of the mountain.

Learning the Art of ‘Chapati’
From Diamir BC, Daniele Nardi talks about lack of climbing activity and team’s involvement in various tasks to get through the bad weather spell. On Saturday night, he wrote, “we play cards, we drink tea, Roberto has to heat the gas tank with warm water, Federico makes a new movie while the gas is being ignited. I read a book, write news and see other men playing the game!”

Things haven’t changed much since then, as Daniele updated yesternight, “continues to snow. Here at base camp we take lessons to make Chapati and the Paratha. First mix flour and water, and add oil. A light cooking and the bread is done. Good lunch.”

Summit of Nanga Parbat on Jan 23rd evening. Source

Tomek in Hospital
Injured Tomek Mackiewicz, who left BC on Jan 21st, is now receiving medication in a hospital in Gilgit. Return journey was challenging due to injured leg, frostbitten feet and the snowstorm. About 50cm of snow fell the night Tomek was in Ser village. Polish climber says that the help from local villagers made his safe departure possible.

New Arrivals
Alex Txikon and three Iranian climbers are on the way to Diamir BC. As per Jasmine Tours (expedition operator for both teams), Alex left Chilas two days ahead of Iranians. A squad of ten security personnel is also trekking with the teams.

Russian Team
Schell route climbers returned to BC on January 20th and probably are still waiting for improvement in conditions. Latest message from team reads, “we set camps at 5100m, 6000m, 6700m and made a deposit at 7100m. There is hard winter ice everywhere above 6000m".
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