Dhaulagiri and Makalu New Targets of Annapurna Summiteers

Annapurna is climbed a bit earlier in spring climbing season than other 8000m peaks. Thus, climbers and Sherpa have an opportunity to undertake another climb before monsoon arrives. Many of Annapurna summiteers are heading to Dhaulagiri and Makalu, now. Routes on both Dhaulagiri and Makalu have already been fixed to high camps and teams are all set for summit push. Acclimatized and rested Annapurna climbers will join them in a couple of days.

Route have been fixed till 6800m on Dhaulagiri – jointly by Indian Expedition, Spanish 2x14x8000ers Team (joined by Argentinian Mariano Galvan) and British Joint Services Medical Research Team. While Sherpa from former two expeditions set up route till C2, British team have now assumed the responsibility of rope fixing to C3. They intend to open the tracks till C3 (7400m) before summit-bid. First summit push on the mountain is expected in upcoming weather window; somewhere around May 15th. “Now another 4 days rest and team will head for the summit attempt.” Indian team wrote on May 7th.

“Team 1 resting in the valley having been to 6800m. Team 2/3/4 heading up today to get to push to C3. T1 waiting for summit weather window,” tweeted British Expedition.

Dhaulagiri teams will be joined by Annapurna summiteers who restored energy and replenished supplies at low altitude before flying to Italian BC (3600m) yesterday. Amongst these climbers are Carlos Soria (for his 13th eight-thousander), Bulgarian Atanas Skatov and the international team of Chris Burke, Matt Du Puy and Lakpa Sherpa.
Dhaulagiri C1 and view towards the summit; Source

There are around 50 climbers – including Sherpa - on Makalu this season. Ropes have been fixed till Makalu La and climbers have made acclimatization trips to 7000m+. Teams are now devising strategy for summit push; the key element being rope fixing from Makalu La to the top.

Boyan Petrov, the climber who achieved first summit of current season on Annpurna, will be attempting Makalu, now. The Bulgarian climber joins the likes of Ali Sadpara - fresh from Nanga Parbat first winter ascent, Nieves Meroi and Romano Benet – the couple looking for their 13th 8000m peak, Iranian lady Parvaneh Kazemi, a group of four Austrians, teams of Swiss operator Kobler-Partner and German Amical Alpin, Italian duo Marco Confortola and Marco Comandona, French lady Sophie Lavaud, Indian young gun Arjun Vajpai, Spaniard Jesus Morales and Catalan veteran Ferran Lattore. All in all, it’s a group of around a dozen and a half nationalities from all around the globe.
Ali Sadpara and Ferran Latorre at Makalu BC; Source

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