Spring 2016: Summits on Makalu & Everest, Cho Oyu Climbers on the Way Up, Shisha Pangma Retreat and More

With acclimatization, rope-fixing and upper camps set up done, it’s time for summit spree on 8000m peaks. After Annapurna, Cho Oyu and Manaslu, climbers have now reached the top of Everest and Makalu. Dhaulagiri teams are also going up. The sole team on Shisha Pangma is, however, waiting for weather window.

Makalu Summits
First summits of season have been reported from Makalu. As per home-team of Parvaneh Kazemi, the Iranian lady called from summit at around 09:00am local time, today. Further details of ascent and names of fellow climbers reaching the top are awaited, as of now.

Amical Alpin team abandoned its summit push on May 10th, when two Sherpa of team died in C2. Other climbers have just completed acclimatization and are waiting for summit window.

Everest Summits
Nine Sherpa completed rope-fixing to Everest summit from Nepalese side, yesterday (May 11th) evening. The team started rope-fixing above South Col earlier this week. Climbers reaching the top, Gyalzen Dorje, Ang Pemba, Nima Tshering, Sera Gyalzen, Pasang Tenzing, Mingma, Mingma Tsiri, Ang Gyalzen and Lhakpa Tsering, belong to nine different commercial operators.

Following closely, four climbers Kenton Cool, Robert Lucas, Pemba Bhote and Dorchi Gyalzen summited, this morning. More ascents are expected in next couple of days, as few other teams are on the mountain.

Some of Lhotse teams are aiming for summit push on May 19th. Apparently, final section of route, from C4 to summit, has not been fixed, yet.

Everest Northside
While route on Southside have been fixed to summit and first commercial climbers have already reached the top, rope-fixing on Tibetan side stands still at 8300m. It has been around two weeks since weather halted the activity.

At least two commercial operators, Kobler-Partner and 7 Summits Club, were expecting the final 600 meters to summit be fixed during May 11th-16th window. They wanted to launch their summit push behind rope-fixing guides. However, Chinese officials deemed weather unsuitable for fixing job. It appears that rope-fixing team is aiming to conclude the task around May 19th.
Lhotse and Everest as seen from C1 (6600m) on Makalu; Source

Shisha Pangma Retreat
Summit Push on Shisha Pangma South Face didn’t go as planned. Ueli Steck and David Gottler, who intend to open a new direct line up the face, were turned back by deteriorating weather. Back in BC, they await another weather window. “The season is not finished yet. We are still motivated and we [will] keep trying!” says Ueli Steck.

Cho Oyu Summit Push
Thomas Laemmle and Extrek team are on their second summit push. They spent yesternight in C2 (7150m) and are heading up towards C3 (7500m) now. They are currently only team on summit-bid. A few other climbers will be leaving ABC today for potential summit on May 17th. Teams report difficult climbing conditions on the mountain and thus far only one four climber, David Roeske, Robin Trygg, Nikolaus Gruber and Chhiring Sherpa, have reached the top.

Dhaulagiri Climbers Going Up
Some of Dhaulagiri climbers are leaving BC today, aiming to reach the top on May 18th. Others will be waiting for a better weather window.
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